Sunday, May 23, 2010

Shampoo: Clarifying shampoo for all hair types

If you want to make a basic or clarifying shampoo, just leave out the dimethicone and conditioning agents. That's really what defines a clarifying shampoo. You can leave in all the lovely film formers - proteins, aloe vera - and the moisturizers, but you leave out the conditioning agents. (I tend to do this as I know I'll be using a lovely conditioner afterwards, but if you know people in your life who might not condition or if you sell your products, then a conditioning or 2-in-1 shampoo might be a better idea.)

BASIC SHAMPOO
15% to 40% surfactants (mix of anionic and cocamidopropyl betaine)
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil
up to 3% Crothix (liquid) to thicken or use salt at up to 3%
water to 100%

We know all the fun things we can include in a shampoo - except our conditioning agents and dimethicone - so let's tweak this for the different hair types.

Start at about 40% mild surfactants for a not-every-day shampoo. (If you're planning to use this as a daily shampoo either reduce the surfactants to about 15% (5% one, 5% the other, 5% cocamidopropyl betaine) or wait until I get to those posts!) As I've mentioned before - with a little envy, I might add - normal haired girls can choose whatever surfactants they like. As we're sticking to the liquid ones for now, you might consider using SLeS or ALeS as they are good all around gentle surfactants, SMC or SMO taurate if you lean towards the dry or a sulfosuccinate or C14-16 olefin sulfonate if you lean towards the oily, or something like a baby blend concentrate if you lean towards the very fine hair. (Click here for surfactant posts here, for the surfactant chart download here...)

We also want some humectants, film formers, and thickeners in this mix. I like liquid Crothix, so I'll include that, but you can use salt or another thickener you prefer. I like aloe vera as a humectant and scalp soother (as well as an electrolyte contributor to the thickening process), but you can feel free to include any hydrosol you like in place of the aloe vera or some of the water amount (if you lean towards oily, rosemary is very nice, and all hair types can appreciate the lovely smell and tingle of peppermint!)

Click here for information on things other than surfactants you'll find in shampoos! 

NOT FOR DAILY USE CLARIFYING SHAMPOO RECIPE FOR NORMAL HAIR
15% SLeS
15% other surfactant of choice
39% water
10% aloe vera (or other hydrosol)
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice
2% panthenol
1% essential or fragrance oils
(optional) 0.5% extract
up to 2% Crothix
0.5% Germall Plus or 1.0% Germaben II or other preservative at suggested amount
Colour, if desired

If you're an oily girl, you can use this recipe and substitute your preferred surfactants in place of the suggestions I make above.

If you're a dry haired girl, we have a tweak it a bit. Reduce your surfactants to about 25% - 10% cocamidopropyl betaine, 5% one surfactant (probably the SMC taurate), and 10% another surfactant (decyl glucoside would be a good choice). Switch your hydrolyzed protein to something like silk to penetrate your hair, and add some moisturizing ingredients. You'll have to increase your thickening to up to 5% Crothix because of the reduced surfactant amount.

Oh, let's just write this out, shall we?

NOT FOR DAILY USE CLARIFYING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR
51.5% water
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
5% SMC or SMO taurate
10% decyl glucoside
2% hydrolyzed silk protein (or another low molecular weight protein)
up to 5% emollient ingredient like PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cocamide DEA, or water soluble oil
3% glycerin
10% aloe vera or hydrosol of choice
2% panthenol
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% preservative
up to 5% Crothix when the mixture has cooled

Join me tomorrow for making conditioning shampoos! 

9 comments:

stephanie said...

Hi !
For the basic shampoo recipe, is there an alternative to Cocamidopropyl Betaine ?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Stephanie. Why are you looking for an alternative? Just curious...

The only other amphoteric surfactant you can use is disodium cocoamphodiacetate

Wendy said...

Hello,

I am eager to make this recipe but I do not have all the ingredients. I have listed the ones I do not have below.
Are they essential? If so, can I substitute them for other ingredients? Or should i eliminate them all together and up the percentage on the water and thickener?
I have oat protein, can i replace that with hydrolyed silk protein?
Can i add some type of exfoliant to this clarifying shampoo, or would that be too much?

5% SMC or SMO taurate
10% decyl glucoside
2% hydrolyzed silk protein (or another low molecular weight protein)
up to 5% emollient ingredient like PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cocamide DEA, or water soluble oil
up to 5% Crothix when the mixture has cooled

Please let me know,
Wendy

wendy said...

Hello,

I also want to add, im trying to create an all natural clarifying shampoo... So in addition to the ingredients previously posted, are they safe a naturally derived? That is, if you know, I tried researching Crothix and I didnt get a clear answer.

please let me know,
Wendy

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Wendy. If you read the hair care section, you'll get an idea of why I use each ingredient, which will give you the ability to decide what you can leave in and what you can omit. Every ingredient we use is naturally derived because they are all made from ingredients found in nature. As for safe, I use these ingredients on my family and myself. Would I use ingredients that weren't safe on people I love?

It depends on the exfoliant you want to use. What one interested you?

Wendy said...

Hey,

Well, Im sure you would use the safest ingredients for your family!!! Thank you for replying. I purchased jojoba beads a while back and thought to myself, would it be a good addition to a shampoo? Based on the texture and the way it clings to my skin i dont think it would be. I want to add a clay to the clarifying shampoo... like bentonite but im going through your tutorials of how to make shampoo so hopefully it comes together. I am starting a hair care line from the ground up and i dont want to be blinded so I want to formulate, understand, and produce safe and effective products. Thank you for you blog!

Your Great,
Wendy

Audrey said...

Hi Susan,

I'm interested in making a not-for-daily use shampoo for dry hair. Are three different surfactants completely necessary? I was thinking of using half and half of the coco betaine and decyl glucose. Any reason in particular this may be ineffective? Thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Audrey. I've written about formulating shampoos in the hair care section of the blog, including why we combine surfactants. If those two surfactants bring what you want to your product and they are appropriate for your hair type, then use them. It's all about the end results and goals of the shampoo. Will it foam, lather, and bubble enough for your tastes? Will it cleanse your hair well? When you make substitutions, know what each ingredient brings to the mix so you can predict the final result.

Make sure you test the pH of the final product if you're using decyl glucoside. The strips aren't good enough; you'll need to use a meter.

Audrey said...

Makes sense, thank you Susan!