Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Modifying the cream cleanser for normal to oily skin

Yep, us normal to oily types can use a cream cleanser with some modifications. If you have normal skin, I'd leave out the stearic acid and avoid the SCI containing stearic acid as it really is too moisturizing for your skin type. You can choose from a variety of surfactants - SMC or SMO taurate would make this feel very creamy and conditioned, while SLeS would be a good cleanser. If you lean to the normal-oily range of normal, you might consider using sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate as your surfactant.

25% SCI
20% cocamidopropyl betaine
25% BSB, SMC or SMO taurate, C14-16 olefin sulfonate.
16% C12-15 alkyl benzoate or other light, emollient oil
5% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
5% honeyquat
2% Crothix
3% glycerin
0.5% extract of choice
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice

If you lean to the normal-to-oily skin type, you can remove the oils and add more surfactants. Since we have a ton of conditioning agents, polymers, and humectants, I'll make up the difference with some film formers (hydrolyzed protein) and increased surfactants.

If you have oily skin, your best surfactant choices are the sulfosuccinates (DLS mild) or sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate (Bioterge AS-40). If you have normal skin, your best choices are SMC or SMO Taurate or SLeS. Either skin type can use BSB as it's a nice blend.

When choosing your extracts, consider your skin type. Those with oily skin might consider using salicylic acid, white willow bark, or honeysuckle (acne prone), rosemary (good anti-oxidant), green tea (again, good anti-oxidant), or chamomile or cucumber extract (rosacea prone). Those with normal skin might want to load up on something with lots of anti-oxidants (green tea, rosemary, grapeseed) or anti-aging features (AHA or salicylic acid). It's really up to you!

30% SCI
24% cocamidopropyl betaine
30% BSB, SMC or SMO taurate, C14-16 olefin sulfonate.
5% PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate or cocamide DEA (optional)
5% honeyquat
2% hydrolyzed protein
2% Crothix
3% glycerin
0.5% extract of choice
0.5% another extract of choice
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice

Join me tomorrow for fun with a creamy cleanser for foamer bottles!


Naomi said...

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate - can I sub Peg-7 Olivate? I read your posts and I'm pretty sure I can, or even sub light oils instead, but just want to make sure.

Also, there is no water in this formula. I have powdered salylic acid and Panthenol. How do I incorporate?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

You can use PEG-7 olivate in this recipe if you want as an emollient ester. You can use the humectants to dissolve the salicylic acid and panthenol, or dissolve them in the liquid surfactants while they are heating. I'd suggest you try it in the humectant!

Naomi said...

Thank you thank you thank you!

Naomi said...

Hi Susan!
I just made your CREAM CLEANSER FOR NORMAL TO OILY SKIN - FOR PEOPLE WHO AREN'T BIG ON OILS and used what I thought was stearic-free SCI (flakes - but now re-reading your posts, it's the prills that don't have stearic). Okay - mistake - big solid clump of cleanser in my tottle. I think I rescued it by gently melting the clump and adding heated distilled water and mixing well. Any other suggestion? I'll check on it later today. I'm going to order ACI.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Naomi. First, this is definitely a jar product - it is very thick and creamy - so the tottle is probably not the best packaging choice. (I really need to include this information in the recipes...) I think you've done what you can - re-heating may compromise your preservative, though - because it's meant to be quite thick.

This recipe has 30% SCI without stearic because the stuff with stearic can get thicker still (if you have SCI with stearic, then try the other version with oil to make it less of a clump and more of a cream!

Let me know how it turns out after the water addition!

Naomi said...

I heated and held distilled water. I gently heated up the tottle in a double boiler, not too hot, just enough to soften the clump and squeeze it out. I added the hot water at about 100% of the cleanser (I should have taken better notes), and mixed the heck out of it first with my stirrer, then my mini-whisk, then my stick blender. The blender created a lot of bubbles and foam - maybe I shouldn't have used the blender? I then let the mixture cool down and the bubbles subside. At 45C, I added more preservative (liquid germall) and stirred really well. When I got back from work, the mixture had turned from clear to white cream. Cool. Anyway, the formula is very liquid now, still creamy, and feels like it cleans as it should. Do you think adding water compromised the effecacy (for sure the % of extracts and salylic acid are watered down).

Naomi said...

Oh, regarding my SCI, I suspected it had stearic in it as when I was making the recipe and waiting for it to cool down, I was cruising your blog and (re)read that the flakes (which I had) had stearic. Based on my suspicion, I left out the crothix. The supplier website doesn't disclose the stearic inclusion so thank you for that information!

Naomi said...

Susan, for this "CREAM CLEANSER FOR NORMAL TO OILY SKIN - FOR PEOPLE WHO AREN'T BIG ON OILS," if I have ACI (which is liquid) can I substitute for the SCI and will that make it more fluid but stay creamy (fluid enough for a tottle that has a large orifice)?

Naomi said...

One last question (for now - I love this recipe!!), what preservative is appropriate for this formula? There is no water, so liquapar? But it's mostly oil liquid germall or germaben II?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

If you are using water, I'd reduce the surfactants by half to compensate so you can keep the active ingredients the same but keep the cleansing power!

My understanding is that ACI has a different feeling than the SCI - less creamy, likely because it's a liquid rather than a solid. So I'm not sure if the cleanser will be as creamy without the SCI, so perhaps trying half ACI and half SCI to see if it retains the creaminess.

As for the preservative, I like Germall Plus. It does contain quite a bit of water (or at least water based ingredients) in the surfactants and humectants, so any preservative suitable for water based products would work well here. I wouldn't use Tinosan if you're using cationic polymers like honeyquat in it!

I'm glad you're enjoying this recipe! I love it (in the without oils version) because it feels so creamy and leaves my skin feeling moisturized!

Leman said...

I wondered if I can substitute PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate with Olive Oil PEG - 10 Esters or something called natural fat restorer INCI: Coco glucoside, Glyceryl oleate??

OR if I were to leave it out what would I increase in the recipe?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Leman! Sure! Any emollient will work in this case. Let me know how it turns out!

Erika said...

Dear Susan!

Im about to use Olive Oil PEG-10 esters. Is that safe? I didn't really find any information about it on your blog.
Thank You!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Erika. I think you might be at the wrong blog for you based on your other comment. Every ingredient I write about is "safe as used" or "generally recognized as safe" and I quote studies and other scientific references when suggesting usage rates. This is an evidence based blog.

Why would I suggest that you use an ingredient that wasn't safe? I would be a horrible horrible person to do that!

I'm afraid that I won't be able to help much as you search for ingredients as I don't declare ingredients unsafe the way something like the Skin Deep Cosmetics Database or the Suzuki Foundation might do. What I do is read textbooks and studies and share the information I find. Again, we're all about the science around here.

As for olive oil esters, you can read about esters in the emollients section of the blog.