Sunday, May 2, 2010

Formulating for your skin type: Creamy exfoliating facial cleanser with jojoba beads

My best friend has normal to slightly oily skin, and together we formulated this exfoliating jojoba bead facial cleanser as a once-to-a-few-times-a-week cleanser to help moisturize her skin when she doesn't feel like using a moisturizer. This recipe is good for dry to normal type skin.

The cleanser itself didn't take a really good picture - really boring - so I've substituted this one - the foamy facial cleanser without oils. Please don't put this in a foamer bottle as you'll never get it out! 

CREAMY EXFOLIATING FACIAL CLEANSER WITH JOJOBA ESTERS AND JOJOBA BEADS
25% SMC taurate
15% cocamidopropyl betaine
12% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
28% water
10% aloe vera
2% honeyquat or condition-eze 7
3% hydrolyzed oat protein
COOL DOWN
2% panthenol
3% jojoba esters
0.5% preservative
5% Crothix
2 to 4% 60/100 jojoba beads

Note: This recipe adds up to 105.5%. Oops! It's because of the jojoba beads - I didn't factor those in while we were playing in the workshop! Oh well.

So let's break down each ingredient.

SMC Taurate: This is a very mild, moisturizing cleanser suitable for dry to normal skin types. You can use other surfactants here like C14-16 olefin sulfonate for normal to oily skin, DLS mild for oily skin, or SLeS/ALeS for all skin types. 

Cocamidopropyl betaine: This is the amphoteric surfactant we include to make our mixtures thicker and milder.

Lavender or chamomile hydrosol: Both are good anti-inflammatories good for all skin types.

Aloe vera: This is a polysaccharide that will form a film on your skin as well as offering anti-inflammatory properties.

Honeyquat or polyquat 7: A conditioning polymer good for moisturizing without oils. It's a great addition for wrinkled skin.

Hydrolyzed oat protein: Cromoist is a film former and oil-free moisturizer.

Panthenol: Great for all skin types. Has proven to be good for healing wounds and regenerating cells.

Jojoba esters: A water soluble jojoba oil great for moisturizing in a kind of "oil free" way. You can substitute any other water soluble oil of choice like PEG-7 olivate, or leave it out if you're an oily girl! 

Preservative: We need this! I'm using liquid Germall Plus, but you can substitute any suitable preservative.

Jojoba beads: We used 60/100 jojoba beads for this application because they are small and easy to suspend. Use any other jojoba or clay beads or other exfoliant of choice. Be warned, though, that I'm not sure how well other things will suspend.

Crothix: Plays a dual role in this cleanser. First, it suspends the jojoba beads nicely, and second, it's a great anti-irritant, so it will make the mixture milder while offering re-fattening of the skin.

This recipe is a good example of knowing your ingredients and knowing the "rules". Once you know the rules, you can break them. And I know I suggested in this post that you use lower levels of surfactants for facial cleansers, then I go and use 40% in this one! The cetyl esters and Crothix will suppress foam, so we added more so we could actually get some kind of lather from this.

If you love the feeling of SCI, feel free to use up to 10% SCI in place of the SMC Taurate. You likely won't need as much Crothix then. SCI with stearic acid is suitable for dry skin types; SCI without stearic acid suitable for normal to oily skin. 

If you want to modify this for really dry skin, you'll want to include more moisturizers - more humectants, more oils, and even gentler surfactants. SMC Taurate is a very gentle cleanser with light oil removal, so you don't get much gentler than this, but you could use sodium lauryl ether sulfate (although I can't suggest anywhere to buy it!) or a baby blend type surfactant. Although, having said this, you'll probably use a moisturizer afterwards...if that's the case, then don't modify this recipe - use the one above.

CREAMY EXFOLIATING FACIAL CLEANSER FOR DRY SKIN
25% SMC taurate or other really gentle surfactant
15% Amphosol CG
12% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
18% water
10% aloe vera
5% honeyquat or condition-eze 7
up to 5% glycerin
3% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
5% jojoba esters
0.5% preservative
5% Crothix
2 to 4% 60/100 jojoba beads


If you want to modify this for wrinkled skin, you can add up to 3% Multifruit BSC or Phytofruit or add some AHA (remember to start low at 0.5% to see if your skin can handle it). You already have some nice exfoliating power here, so you don't want to add more! (If you have AHA in your moisturizer or toner, then don't include it in the cleanser!) You can also add some anti-oxidants in the form of extracts, like green tea or rosemary. We won't increase the oils or humectants any more than we did for the dry skin version because there's lots in there! But we have increased the cationic polymers because wrinkled skin like these ingredients (we increased it in the dry skin wash as well, so I won't be specifically increasing it for this version!)

CREAMY EXFOLIATING FACIAL CLEANSER FOR WRINKLED SKIN
25% SMC taurate or other really gentle surfactant
15% Amphosol CG
12% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
14.5% water
10% aloe vera
5% honeyquat or condition-eze 7
up to 5% glycerin
3% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
5% jojoba esters
3% Multifruit BSC or Phytofruit
0.5% green tea extract
0.5% preservative
5% Crothix
2 to 4% 60/100 jojoba beads
Let's take a look at how to modify this recipe specifically for oily, acne prone, or rosacea prone skin types tomorrow.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hey, Susan! I'd love to try this recipe, but I absolutely can't find Jojoba Esters (the water soluble kind). I'm a pretty good Googler, but I'm not having any luck. Thanks! :-)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I mention in the post that you could use PEG-7 olivate or any other water soluble ester, and I make some suggestions in this post for other substitutions. I received the jojoba esters as a sample, so I have no idea where to find them! Sorry I can't be more helpful.

Kelli said...

Hi Susan and Anonymous!
Was just reading this and thought I would offer a little help. You can purchase Jojoba Esters at ingredientstodiefor.com

It's listed under Emollients and Esters and also under Thickeners/Structural ingredients. It's a little pricey, in my opinion, but it doesn't look as though you need to use a lot.
Hope that helps.

Anonymous said...

Do we follow the facial cleanser instructions to make this?

Clive said...

Question: Now that the major companies have removed microplastic beads from exfoliant products due to the marine contamination they cause, will the same apply to jojoba beads?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Clive. Jojoba beads are biodegradable, so I don't think we see the same problems as the plastic beads, which don't degrade.