dimethicone) and behave as surface smoothing agents for aging skin. I can guarantee if my mom likes a moisturizer, it's likely to be quite silicone heavy. They offer quite a lovely skin feel - smooth and glidy - and some good protective qualities. Silicone moisturizers won't sink into your skin, which can be a benefit for women with sensitive or oily skin because it doesn't add to the oils.
If you're making a silicone heavy moisturizer, your emulsifier of choice is generally BTMS. It's designed to emulsify large amounts of silicone, plus it will give a drier feel and offer conditioning benefits. (Some of the suggested formulations from Croda have 3.5% BTMS with up to 20% silicones!) In this case, we aren't heavy with silicones, but we have definitely gone over the 25% rule for Polawax. If you want to use another emulsifier, you'll have to re-calculate the amounts - for instance, 5% for Polawax and remove 1% from the water phase - to include the increase in the oil phase.
You can take pretty much any moisturizer you like and substitute the silicones for the oils and the BTMS for the emulsifier and have a silicone based moisturizer.
If we take a look at the aging skin moisturizer from the other day, we can substitute the 12% oils of choice for 12% dimethicone, 6% dimethicone and 6% cyclomethicone, or a percentage of dimethicone with some oils. We could get quite fancy with go with our 12% oils and add up to 5% dimethicone (remove from the water phase, don't increase the BTMS) to the mix in the cool down phase.
I'm re-formulating the aging skin moisturizer to include some lovely oils we want for things like improving skin's barrier protection (like evening primrose or borage) and moisturizing with the dimethicone. You can choose any oils your skin likes.
You can use cyclomethicone as well - it offers a lovely smooth and glidy feeling, really soft on your skin - but it is volatile and can evaporate quickly, so you aren't getting much moisturizing from it. But it will "detackify" any ingredients like glycerin or other sticky things, so you can add more humectants and get the same skin feel. And we know aging skin loves humectants!
SILICONE BASED MOISTURIZER FOR DRY, WRINKLED SKIN
20% aloe vera
20% lavender or other hydrosol
3% cationic polymer like polyquat 7 or Honeyquat
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice
10% borage or evening primrose oil
4% Incroquat BTMS-50
2% cetyl alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% green tea extract
0.5% grapeseed extract
1% Vitamin E
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice
up to 3% AHA in the form of AHA powder or Multifruit BSC (remove 3% from the water phase)
Join me tomorrow as we embark on a series about hair and hair care products!