I'll be using this basic facial moisturizer recipe as our starting point.
BASIC FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE
2-5% humectant of choice
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
2% hydrolyzed protein
0.5% another extract
What's my rationale for each ingredient?
Water: Well, that's obvious, but why so much? Facial moisturizers should feel light on our skin, so we need to include a lot of water. You can substitute other liquids for the water amount like aloe vera, witch hazel, hydrosols, and so on.
Humectants: Humectants are vital for every skin type, offering moisturizing and helping with water retention. They are especially important for dry skin types, and they can offer moisturizing without oils for oily skinned girls.
Allantoin: I suggest this for all skin types as allantoin acts as a barrier ingredient and offers softening, cell regeneration, and soothing for weather damaged skin. We would normally get our barrier ingredient from cocoa butter or dimethicone (the other two approved barrier ingredients), but some skin types don't play well with oils and some people don't want to use silicones. Allantoin is good for just about every skin type (except sensitive, who will have to see how they react to it).
Oils: We're using oils and not butters here to offer moisturizing and emolliency without occlusion. We'll modify which oils we use for each skin type.
Emulsifier: We need an emulsifier to bring the oil and water together in a lotion. Although I normally go for Polawax, for a facial lotion, Incroquat BTMS can offer a less greasy feeling with some conditioning. I suggest this for oily skin types - normal and dry skin types will have to see which one they prefer. You can choose other emulsifiers here - SugarMulse, Natramulse, your own combination based on the HLB system - and use them at the suggested amount.
Thickener: Normally we'd use something like cetyl alcohol or stearic acid as the thickener in a lotion. Both will thicken and offer moisturizing, but I'll choose cetyl alcohol here because it will feel more glidy on your skin (which is essential for your face!) and it works in conjunction with the BTMS to offer more conditioning! Cetyl alcohol also offers oil-free moisturizing for oily girls with sensitive skin!
Preservatives: It is not an option to leave out the preservatives in a lotion, so choose something from this post. If you are using Incroquat BTMS, Tinosan is not an option as it doesn't work well in cationic mixtures.
Hydrolyzed protein: These act as film formers, humectants, and moisturizers, and make the lotion feel a little more glidy. Great for all skin types, and we'll be modifying the protein we use for your skin type.
Panthenol: An awesome inclusion as it behaves as a humectant, emollient, and moisturizer for our skin. Studies have shown it can help speed wound healing, and it can help retain moisture in our skin!
Extracts: There are quite a few to choose from, and I suggest choosing a hydrosol you like to work in combination with an extract you like. This is another major component we'll be tweaking for your skin type!
Join me tomorrow to enjoy some formulating fun with dry skin facial moisturizers!