I set out to create a foaming face wash filled with all kinds of interesting and decadent extracts for my best friend. What are her requirements? She's a normal skinned girl who is interested in keeping her face well moisturized and clear from break-outs. She is worried about aging (I keep telling her she's fabulous, but will she listen?) so I want to include some great anti-oxidants and AHA ingredients. She likes the feel of SCI, so I want to include that also, but I need to include the type without the stearic acid (the granules) because she finds her skin gets oilier quicker with this fatty acid (and because the stearic acid type won't come out of a foamy bottle!). I know her skin isn't a fan of silk proteins, so I am including Cromoist for her.
As usual, I want to include the cocamidopropyl betaine to adequately melt the SCI (and increase mildness), and I'm using Plantaren 2000 (decyl glucoside) because it is a very mild non-ionic cleanser and because it boosts the cationic conditioner - honeyquat - and makes it more substantive (and because I don't use it often so I thought I'd try something new).
Notice I've created this recipe to be extra mild by including amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. To read more about making your surfactant mixes milder, click here.
I've included a few interesting extracts. I like green tea extract for its great anti-oxidant power, chrysanthemum for the anti-inflammatory and free radical scavenging abilities, chamomile hydrosol because it's a fantastic anti-inflammatory that can reduce irritation and stinging and reduce the look of UV damaged skin, aloe vera because it offers soothing and cell proliferation, and Multifruit BSC because it is a great way to include AHA in a product without worrying about using too much!
So this is a mild, moisturizing cleanser good for dry to normal skin types who are worried about lines and wrinkles and want to include some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant features.
FOAMING FACIAL WASH WITH SCI
10% SCI (Jordapon prilled, no stearic acid)
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
10% Plantapon 2000
10% aloe vera
10% chamomile hydrosol
3% honeyquat (or polyquat 7)
2% cromoist (or other hydrolyzed protein)
COOL DOWN PHASE
5% liquid green tea extract (note below)
0.5% preservative (liquid Germall Plus)
0.5% chrysanthemum extract
3% Multifruit BSC
Note about liquid green tea extract: If you have powdered extract, use it at 0.5% and add 4.5% to the water phase. I'm using the liquid stuff because I bought it and I wanted to play with it!
1. Weigh the SCI and cocamipropyl betaine into a container and put into a double boiler. Stir occasionally until it is melted.
2. Weigh the rest of the heated phase into a container and put into a double boiler. Stir occasionally until it is the same temperature as the SCI and cocamipropyl betaine.
3. Combine the two containers and mix very well until it is a homogenous solution. Don't stir too vigorously or you might end up with tons of bubbles that take some time to get to the top of the bottle!
4. When the mixture reaches 45˚C, add the cool down phase. Again, don't mix it too vigorously!
5. Let this sit until it comes to room temperature before bottling.
So how the heck did I manage to get SCI into a foamer bottle when we know it thickens our mixtures? SCI mostly thickens because of the stearic acid. By using a version that doesn't contain it, I didn't include the thickening feature. If you want to put this in a pump or squeeze type bottle instead of a foamer either use the SCI with stearic acid (the noodles and sometimes the flakes) or add up to 2% Crothix or other thickener at the appropriate level.
How do we adapt this for dry skin? Use the SCI with stearic acid and don't put it in a foamer bottle! That's it. The stearic acid is a good moisturizer for dry skin, and just that one little change is enough!
Oh, and what about the pH of this mixture? Decyl glucoside has a higher pH level (7 to 9.5) but Multifruit BSC has a pH of 4.0, and in the end they balance out. If you need to adjust the pH of this mixture, you can add a little citric acid to the mix.
Join me tomorrow for formulating facial moisturizers for your skin type!