Monday, May 3, 2010

Formulating a creamy exfoliating cleanser for oily or sensitive skin types!

If you want a creamy exfoliating facial cleanser, but think yesterday's recipe won't agree with your skin, let's see how we can modify this for other skin types!

Oily skin: The jojoba esters may work for you if you have resistant skin, so you can keep those in if you like, although olive oil esters (PEG-7 olivate) may be a better choice (because they're easier to find at our suppliers). I'd suggest using different surfactants - like DLS mild or another sulfosuccinate - suitable for oily skin. You can also use SCI without stearic acid at up to 10% in place of the sulfosuccinate. (Remember, if you use SCI you might be able to reduce the amount of Crothix). You can include some astringent extracts like green tea, rosemary, grape seed, or honeysuckle at 0.5% in the cool down phase.

CREAMY EXFOLIATING FACIAL CLEANSER FOR OILY, RESISTANT SKIN

25% DLS mild (or 10% SCI and 15% DLS mild)
15% Amphosol CG
12% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
28% water
10% aloe vera
2% honeyquat or condition-eze 7
3% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
3% jojoba or olive oil esters
0.5% preservative
5% Crothix
2 to 4% 60/100 jojoba beads

Acne prone skin: As usual, include some salicylic acid or white willow bark at 0.5% (for reduction in inflammation and acne treatment) but use the same surfactants as the oily skinned version. In fact, I'd suggest using the 10% SCI for the creamy and conditioned feeling instead of all sulfosuccinate! You can also include extracts that will work well for acne prone skin - honeysuckle, chamomile, green tea, rosemary, or cucumber extract at 0.5% - and I'd suggest increasing the hydrosol to 22% so you can get more anti-inflammatory goodness!

Rosacea prone skin: You can use the same recipe as the acne prone skin type because the goals for this are pretty much the same, although I generally increase the hydrosol by 10% (chamomile for anti-inflammatory properties) or throw in some witch hazel for some of the water phase. You also want to choose an extract that is anti-inflammatory, astringent, and anti-oxidizing, such as chamomile or green tea, as well as the other extract.

For both these skin types, consider starting with the jojoba or clay beads at 2% and working your way up. Exfoliation is good, but it can be a bit much if you're having some kind of flare-up.

CREAMY EXFOLIATING FACIAL CLEANSER FOR ACNE OR ROSACEA PRONE SKIN

10% SCI
15% DLS mild or C14-16 olefin sulfonate
15% Amphosol CG
22% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
20% water
10% aloe vera
2% honeyquat or condition-eze 7
3% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
0.5% white willow bark or salicylic acid
0.5% another astringent extract
0.5% an anti-oxidant extract (optional)
0.5% preservative
5% Crothix
2 to 4% 60/100 jojoba beads
Join me tomorrow for another cream type cleanser for dry skin!

9 comments:

Sherry said...

Hi Susan! If I want to remove the beads (my skin is super sensitive), what would you suggest replacing them with, or what should I increase in their place? Also, I LOVE really creamy, thicker cleansers... almost cold cream consistency. I'm wondering if there is a way to thicken this mixture up without compromising the quality of the recipe? Is that possible without changing too much? A girl on Etsy makes a product I love that works really well on my skin.. it does have aloe and witch hazel in it but is really thick and she packages it in a tub. The only problem is, she has been on vacation since February so I'm looking for something I can make where I can choose the extracts I want. :) Just trying to find a way to reach the same consistency with my homemade version. If not, though, that's fine. I did take a look at your cream cleanser but it doesn't seem to have liquids in it, so I wasn't sure how to go about adding the witch hazel or aloe.

Sherry said...

Oh! I also forgot to mention... one of the main reasons I'm so enamored with the cream cleanser I mentioned is because I don't have to wet my face at first... I can just smooth it on my face, it sort of disappears but sits on the skin, and then after a few minutes I rinse it off. It's really easy and still leaves my skin feeling soft. Would this cleanser require one to wet their face first, out of curiosity?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sherry. I've answered your questions in today's Weekend Wonderings. The short answers are - leave out the exfoliants if you wish, her product sounds like a lotion, and yes, you'll have to wet your face and rinse off this product. The long answers are found in the post above!

Suzie T said...

Hi Susan I made this cleanser which is lovely. Are the jojoba beads supposed to stay mixed in this? Mine are just suspended (stuck) at the top of the bottle....? Thanks,Suzanne

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Suzie! Yes, ideally they would be suspended in the product, but they can float to the top at times. The jojoba beads are very light, so they can come out of the solution. When this happens to me, I turn the bottle over so they'll get back into the solution. (In this post, you can see that my jojoba beads have floated to the top.

Renee Ng said...

Hi,
I am a newbie to DIY. When I look at the recipe of CREAMY EXFOLIATING FACIAL CLEANSER FOR OILY, RESISTANT SKIN, I find no oil and no emulsifier, so which ingredient gives the creaminess to the cleanser ? And why is it at cream like consistency instead of watery?
Thanks a lot.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Renee! In the first recipe, the PEG-7 olivate or water soluble olive oil gives it its creaminess. We don't need an emulsifier for an ester like this. In the second recipe, the SCI gives it a creamy feeling and thickens it up quite dramatically. SCI is a noodle tht contains fatty acids, so it thickens the product.

A creamy feeling need not come from oils and lotion: It can come from fatty alcohols, esters, fatty acids, and silicones, too.

Renee Ng said...

HI Susan, thx for your reply!!! I hv tired to making a creamy facial cleaner but failed. I hv tried 19% oil, 6% BTMS 50, 5% DLS mild , 5% Cocamidopropyl Betaine,and the rest water , but it didn’t thicken up and remained watery. Could u pls tell me which part goes wrong ?
Thanks a lot !!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Renee! You can't mix BTMS-50 with surfactants and surfactants with oil. This product won't work in so many ways. Take a look at the hair care section to see how I formulate with oils, do a seach for "creamy face cleanser" and see what you find, or look for surfactants + oils to see what comes up.