Saturday, April 3, 2010

Update on yesterday's trying new things out lotion!

Part of the problem in trying all new ingredients in a lotion is that it's hard to figure out exactly what you like and what you don't like. (I'm referring to the lotion I made on Thursday.) What I should have done is create a usual recipe then switch out one ingredient - say the C12-15 alkyl benzoate for fractionated coconut oil or the cetyl esters for cetyl alcohol - to see what it does.

But I'm an impatient girl and couldn't wait to play.

I think this lotion is a little too light for my tastes. It was great for my work day - I didn't feel it was too occlusive and I didn't feel too warm - but I don't feel as moisturized as I should. I know the humidity isn't great right now, but I always feel humectants should play a starring role in light to medium weight lotions.

What would I change?

I would like a little more slip to the lotion. This means adding more oily oils or butters or adding some dimethicone. As dimethicone is an occlusive ingredient, do I want to include it? Yep. I think I would include this at 2% in the cool down phase. (So I have to increase my emulsifier to 6.25% to compensate!)

As for my humectants, I really think I need to switch the propylene glycol for glycerin. I do like the slip of glycerin a lot more, so that needs to be in there.

I'm not sure about the cetyl esters. They are lighter than cetyl alcohol, so I wonder if returning to the cetyl alcohol will give me more slip.

46.25% water
10% chamomile hydrosol
3% glycerin
2% sodium PCA
2% phytokeratin

8% C12-15 alkyl benzoate
6% wheat germ oil
6% matcha green tea butter - this feels too dry! shea or aloe butter?
6.25% Polawax
3% cetyl alcohol

1% fragrance oil (Cream cheese frosting from Brambleberry, as usual!)
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% Vitamin E
5% liquid green tea extract
2% dimethicone

Well, I know what I have to do - get into the workshop to try out this recipe!

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