Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Surfactants: Body wash for dry skin

If we want to modify a body wash for dry skin, we have to remember the goals for this skin type - gentle cleansing that doesn't strip our skin and moisturizing. We can do that in a number of ways...

You can modify the surfactants to increase the number of very mild or gentle surfactants. You could substitute the sulfonate (Bioterge AS-40) - which is better for normal to oily skin - for something a little milder like a taurate (SMC or SMO Taurate at the Herbarie) or an alkyl ether sulfate (like ammonium laureth sulfate). The BSB is intended to be a good-for-babies kind of cleanser, so you can substitute that for any surfactant blend intended for gentle cleansing. SCI is a lovely surfactant for dry skin, but I'm saving that for tomorrow's post!

We can increase the cationic polymers to 5% if we want, and increase the glycerin 5% (or including other humectants like hydrovance or propylene glycol, remembering that sodium lactate rinses off). We can increase the aloe vera to 10% or higher, and increase the hydrolyzed proteins as high as 5%. We can increase the panthenol if you have a damaged skin barrier (meaning you have sensitive skin) as high as 5%.

We can add water soluble oils at up to 4%. Or we could add dimethicone at up to 3% in this body wash! It will create a light, occlusive barrier on your skin to trap in the water and keep the world out! It will emulsify properly because our surfactants can emulsify a bit of oil! Let's take a look at that!

BODY WASH FOR DRY SKIN WITH WATER SOLUBLE OILS OR DIMETHICONE
27.5% water
15% Amphosol CG (coco betaine)
15% SMC or SMO Taurate or ALeS
15% BSB (or other gentle surfactant)
10% aloe vera
5% glycerin
5% cationic polymer (like condition-eze 7 or honeyquat)
4% water soluble oil like PEG 7-olivate or a silicone like dimethicone
2% hydrolyzed protein
2% panthenol
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% Crothix (as necessary)

We can add something like cocamide DEA to re-fatten our skin at a ratio of 1 part cocamide DEA to 4 parts surfactant mixture. We could add some PEG-7 cocoate at 2% to 20% to re-fatten our skin or to solubilize some non-water soluble oils. (It also helps to thicken the mixture, so it's a triple bonus ingredient!) We could also include something like myristamine oxide at 5% to 20% (scroll down).

In this recipe, we'd use about 10% cocamide DEA. Honestly, that's way too much. I'd suggest a maximum of 4% to 5% as it can feel a bit slimy on your skin if you use too much.

BODY WASH FOR DRY SKIN WITH COCAMIDE DEA, PEG-7 COCOATE, OR MYRISTAMINE OXIDE
27.5% water
15% Amphosol CG (coco betaine)
15% SMC or SMO Taurate or ALeS
15% BSB (or other gentle surfactant)
10% aloe vera
5% glycerin
5% cationic polymer (like condition-eze 7 or honeyquat)
4% cocamide DEA or 4% PEG-7 cocoate or 5% myristamine oxide
2% hydrolyzed protein
2% panthenol
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% to 2% Crothix (as necessary)

If you're using more or less of an ingredient, take it out of the water phase.

If you want to add some oils, you can add something like polysorbate 80 (equal parts poly 80 to oil) or Plantasol CCG (use at 1% to 10%). I wouldn't go over 5% oils because it will depress the foam dramatically. You can also use something like EZ Pearl (glycol distearate) to add moisturizing to your body wash!

Click here for a body wash with polysorbate 80 and oils. Just substitute the surfactants good for dry skin with the surfactants I've used in this recipe.

Click here for a body wash including glycol distearate. Again, substitute your preferred surfactants for the ones I've used.

Join me tomorrow for a break down of the Dove body washes that everyone seems to like (and a duplicate recipe).

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Hi I found your site by looking for the benefits of orchid extract and I am loving it. So much information! My head is spinning with ideas. I really enjoy your explanations and the recipes. So many sites just have recipes but its hard to know what each thing does.

I look forward to your post on Dove body washes. I like them but the scent is too strong and something in their products irritants by skin. I have that dry sensitive to everything type of skin. Which is why I am researching making my own products. I make bath salts and simple one or two ingredient things like washing grains and one use facials. I just recently made a whipped body butter, I used Germaben II E as a preservative. It was very nice and light. Next time I will use your heat and hold method, it makes sense. Looking forward to reading your past posts.

Madea