Thursday, April 15, 2010

Multifruit BSC (aka Fruit Acid Complex)

Multifruit BSC is a great way to get AHAs into your products in a way that is easy to use and hard to over-do. With an INCI Water & Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract & Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract & Acer Saccharinum (Sugar Maple) Extract & Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract & Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Extract, you can see there are a variety of low pH acids that will help exfoliate your skin and expose new shiny skin.

There is about 57% bilberry extract, 3% sugar maple extract, 8% lemon extract, 24% sugar cane extract, and 8% orange extract, which results in 28% to 32% lactic acid, 2% to 6% citric acid, 1% tartaric acid, 12% to 17% glycolic acid, and no more than 1% malic acid. It's about 55% active, meaning that 10% Multifruit BSC works out to 5.5% AHA.

As this product can make you more sun sensitive, remember to wear sunscreen or products containing sunscreens if you're going outdoors! (And don't make your own sunscreen!)

Multifruit BSC has a pH of 4.06, and is soluble in water, glycerin, and propylene glycol, and insoluble in oils. Add at 5% to 15% (so 2.75% to 8.25% AHA in your creation) in the cool down phase of your creation. It is great for use in surfactant blends, lotions, creams, shampoos, and other water based creations. It is not suggested to use a cationic emulsifier like BTMS with this product, so keep it in non-ionic lotions and potions or anionic surfactant creations. It has a shelf life of 12 to 18 months if kept in a cool dark place.

Click here for one data sheet and another, both of which offer some formulating ideas. Or stay tuned for my toner suitable for a best friend later this morning!


mamirican said...

Susan, what was the outcome with this eye cream?

terriblybadgrrl said...

What particular base/emulsifier, in addition to glycerine, would you sugest, so I could incorporate the Fruit Acid Complex in a lotion, please?
Since the emulsifier needs to be non ionic, and not oil based, do I exclude any oils all together, or just keep them at a low percentage?
I'm considering Sclerotium Gum,(which I found on the SEA site. It sounds fantastic for various creations, and can be used w/highly acidic ingredients).
Most importantly, what non ionic emulsifier would you suggest?

Uvesh Patel said...

hi susan

may I use it in face serum recipie with vitamin-c, E AND FERULIC ACID AND HYALURONIC ACID AND NON-IONIC EMULSIFIER LIKE

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Uvesh. I would need to know your complete recipe to know if it would work. But sure, give it a try with a small amount of the product you're making and see what happens!

Karen Garretson said...

Wouldn't the pH need to be lowered to around 3? I have some multi fruit and other straight Aha's and use these plus sodium lactate but don't use an exact formula for peels and/or lotions. Like your site and name.