The goal in treating oily skin is to reduce the amount of sebum. There is no effective topical way to completely reduce the sebum production to that of a "normal" skinned person, but we can do things to reduce the sebum production slightly (we're not using retinoids here, as they take a lot of skill to use well and we can't access the really good stuff!).
If you're susceptible to acne, then you have oily-sensitive skin and our goal is to reduce or eliminate the bacteria that can cause really awful pustules. We can use salicylic acid (or white willow bark), benzoyl peroxide, antibiotics (topical or oral), and we want lots of anti-inflammatories to reduce the inflammation and redness on your skin. (Join me tomorrow for more on the sensitive skin category...)
If you're resistant to acne, then you have oily-resistant skin and our goal is to reduce sebum production or wrinkling or other things unrelated to sebum production. As I mentioned above, there are no completely effective ways to reduce sebum production, but you can use astringents and mild cleansers to remove the excess oil without it coming back too quickly. Oils are right out for moisturizers and lotions for oily skin, but you can use water soluble esters or fatty alcohols (like cetyl or cetearyl alcohol) to moisturize when necessary. You will want to use a lot of aloe vera - it is a soothing anti-inflammatory - or hydrosols, and hydrolyzed proteins, both of which will form films on your skin and offer moisturizing without oils.
When you are making mineral make-up, you want to use things like calcium carbonate or modified starches, Micronaspheres, dimethicone treated serecite mica, talc, or clay to absorb the oils so your colours won't morph. Add a little allantoin, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide for soothing and protecting inflamed skin.
And don't forget exfoliation! We need to lightly exfoliate our skin so the cells don't block the hair follicles, which can result in blackheads and pimples. You want to choose very mild exfoliants - a washcloth, a light facial brush, things like clay or jojoba beads. You can put these beads in your cleansers - make sure it's a thick one, not something in a foamy bottle - and for light exfoliant! I made up a nice cleanser with some very small jojoba beads - it felt amazing!
Join me tomorrow for more about skin types - sensitive skin!