Friday, March 26, 2010

Making a toner for the oily skin type - creating the recipe

Okay, so we have the general idea of what we want to include, so let's get started on making a toner! With the idea in mind of being careful when we combine extracts, I suggest you choose one you really like to start off with, then add a second one when you see how your skin reacts to it.

Oily skin, resistant: Again, you can choose whatever extracts or liquids you like, so here's the standard suggested recipe and you can add what you like! I've chosen rosemary hydrosol and rosemary extract as rosemary is great for oily skin, creates a moisturizing layer, and offers great anti-oxidants. Green tea offers great anti-oxidants and other lovely goodies!

26% water
30% witch hazel (the kind without alcohol)
25% rosemary hydrosol (or other hydrosol of choice)
10% aloe vera liquid
2% sodium lactate
2% hydrolyzed protein
3% honeyquat
0.5% allantoin

2% panthenol
0.5% powdered rosemary extract
0.5% green tea extract
0.5% preservative (I use Germall Plus)

Oily skin, acne prone: We'll switch this recipe to include white willow bark or salicylic acid at 0.5%, chamomile hydrosol, and honeysuckle or chamomile for the extracts. We also want to include sodium lactate to help with acne and a little light exfoliation.

26% water
30% witch hazel
25% chamomile hydrosol
10% aloe vera liquid
2% sodium lactate
2% hydrolyzed protein
3% honeyquat
0.5% allantoin

2% panthenol
0.5% white willow bark or salicylic acid
0.5% honeysuckle extract
0.5% preservative (I use Germall Plus)

Oily skin, rosacea type: I'd suggest using the recipe above but switch out the honeysuckle extract for chamomile and consider using either chamomile or lavender hydrosol. Also, I'm finding my skin is a little sensitive to sodium lactate lately, so I'm choosing to use hydrovance or sodium PCA right now. See what your skin likes! (Just because I like it doesn't mean you will!)

Oily skin, pigmented type: You can use any of the recipes above - depending if you have resistant, acne prone, or rosacea type skin - but include strawberry or liquorice extract at 0.5% and in place of one of the extracts.

Oily skin, wrinkled type: We'll have to make up a new formula for you as we need to include a few other things. Consider adding 0.5% Vitamin C in the heated phase of your product. Stir it very well! You can use 0.5% papaya extract or strawberry extract to get the Vitamin C as well.

Also, consider adding up to 10% (I wouldn't go over 3% if I were you, but if your skin can handle it...) of the Multifruit or Phytofruit products to get that AHA you want! (If you don't have this, leave it out). Make sure you don't have too many exfoliating things in one product.

You definitely want some grapeseed or green tea extract in there - choose one or both - and we want to include some more moisturizers in there. Let's go with a little extra humectant - no sodium lactate for you if you're using AHA - like hydrovance (urea is great for wrinkled skin) and glycerin together (again, great!) We'll also reduce the witch hazel and water because we want to increase the moisturizing nature of the aloe vera! You might also consider using silk protein as it will penetrate your skin, or something like Phytokeratin, which has both large and small molecules for film forming and skin penetration. I'm getting rid of the water - if you don't have a hydrosol, then use water in its place.

20% witch hazel (the kind without alcohol)
32% hydrosol of choice
30% aloe vera liquid
3% hydrovance
3% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein
3% honeyquat
0.5% allantoin

2% panthenol
0.5% green tea extract
0.5% grapeseed extract
up to 3% Phytofruit, Multifruit, or other AHA liquid stuff
(0.5% if you are using straight AHA, increase water amount by 2.5%)
0.5% preservative (I use Germall Plus)

Well, there you have a few ideas on how to formulate a toner for your oily skin type. Join me tomorrow for fun formulating a toner for the dry skin type!


kinks said...

Hi Susan

Enjoying your blog from the UK immensely!!
Is alcohol free witch hazel, distilled witch hazel? And if not, could I use witch hazel water?

Thank you

Lynda said...

Hi Swift! I enormously love and appreciate your work, both with the blog and the youth groups. You are one smart, soulful, generous woman. Thank you for everything.

And now a Q for you... I made the toner recipe above and I don't like the way it smells. I love the scent of fresh rosemary, but the brand new rosemary hydrosol I opened to make this has a medicine smell about it . I find that most hydrosols have that bit of a medicine smell to them. Is this normal?

Alas, I don't really like the scent of witch hazel either...

Any ideas about a good essential oil to add here that might freshen things up?

Your fan,


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Lynda! I've written this up as a Weekend Wondering. I've made a few suggestions, but I think we need to hear from the readers for more!

zoe bleck said...

Hi Susan, just made a toner, used your posts for inspiration. It is wonderful! Gentle, refreshing, and I hope over time will calm my middle aged skin down.

I used green tea for the water, witch hazel, aloe juice, cromollient sce, allantoin, and of course, preservative.

I don't actually,know,if the green tea will hae any effect, but I didn't have the extract and thought, why not?

I added just a drop each of lavender and clary sage eo.

Thank you for this, and all the generously shared info here! Zoe

Anonymous said...

Help with toner failure.

Any help and input here would be appreciated.

I'm a real newbie here; just branching off from bath bombs and basic scrubs. I've done a lot of reading (thank you Susan!) and thought II would start off with a simple toner before tackling any lotions.
I was so looking forward to having a nice toner. Although I don't have a lot of ingredients, I felt that I had some decent basics for a good toner.
I started out with a small 200 ml batch to split with my mom. Sadly, it was a fail that went cloudy and ended up with an ugly sediment. I have no idea where I went wrong.

Here's my recipe:

Heated Phase
51% witch hazel
25% rose distillate
20% water
.5% glycerin

Cool Down Phase
1% panthenol powder
.5% green tea extract powder
1.5% phytokeratin
.5% liquid germall plus

I heated and held @70C for 20 min. Then I put about 1/4 of the heated phase into a different container and let it cool to about 42C and used that to dissolve the green tea and panthenol. This was tinted because of the green tea, but still clear.
I added the preservative to the phytokeratin (was that my mistake?) then added that to the green tea and panthenol mix. That's the part that went cloudy. I then added that to the main mixture (it had cooled to below 45C as well).
The next morning, there was quite a bit of sediment at the bottom of my bottle. Not suitable for sharing at all :(


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Erin. My thought is that the panthenol is making the green tea less soluble. You may have too many powdered things in the toner, and it is making the green tea precipitate. You could try using less panthenol next time, using a liquid panthenol, or using liquid extracts in general.

You don't need to reserve 1/4 of the liquid to dissolve your powders. They are designed to dissolve very quickly and easily in a small amount of water. I generally leave 5 to 15 ml (1 to 3 tsp) out to dissolve my powders.

If this problem continues, put it in an opaque bottle. That's what I do when I have something that needs to be shaken. There's a human desire to shake things, and I hope that anyone using it will do that before hand!

Deb Manning said...

Hello Susan,

I made one of the above toners and I love it for my immensely oily skin. However, I cannot get the powdered extracts to completely dissolve! I end up having to strain the liquid through a paper filter. I purchased my extracts from voyager. Is there a trick I'm unaware of to dissolve these powders?

Thanks, Deb

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Deb. Are you using water at around 45˚C to dissolve the powders? Are you dissolving them separately and mixing well or adding them to the product? Check out this post in the FAQ to see how I use the powdered extracts.

Deb Manning said...

Good morning Susan!

I have very very very (did I say oily skin. Over the years, with cystic acne, I have developed very deep scars and open holes in my skin. I have had surgeries to close up the deep scars, even dermabrasion many years ago, but it all came back! I have since learned to live with my skin problem and scarring! Since I hit menopause, I started playing with my own formulations for about year now, some worked some did not, until I found your blog!! I was so impressed and excited, that I spent a small fortune on everything I thought I "might " need! Now I just need to to learn how to use it all!

Below is the recipe I used for the toner ( I did not dissolve the extracts individually, and the water was much cooler than your recommendation)

50% water, 29% witch hazel, 10% aloe liquid, 2% sodium lactate, 2% hydrolized oat protien, .5% allantoin, 3% honeyquat, 2% caprolactam Capric triglyceride, .5% white Willow bark powdered extract, .5% Rosemary powdered extract, .5% germall plus.

The caprolactam floats on top, which is ok because I can shake before use. I thought this would add an extra bit of moisturizing without the greasiness, because it soaks in immediately. I was thinking of adding banana extract for extra softening, would this be too much?

Also, a friend recently told me that germall plus is bad for lungs when used in a spray product??

This toner works wonders on my face at keeping the oil production down to almost none by the end of the day, and has not dried my skin out.

Many thanks...Deb

Any suggestions would be sooooooooo appreciated!

Val said...

Hello Susan!
Just a quick question about heating & holding witch hazel and hydrosols - it doesn't damage or degrade the beneficial properties of these ingredients? I was looking to see if I could boil the alcohol out of my witch hazel. Thanks for your awesome blog!!