Sunday, March 28, 2010

Making a toner for the dry skin type - resistant or wrinkled

I really have to take more pictures of my toners! I hate using the same pictures all the time!

Yesterday we took a look at a toner suitable for a dry skinned, sensitive or wrinkled type to use as a moisturizer alone. If you want a toner to use after cleansing but before moisturizing...well, that's so much easier!

We'll use many of the ingredients from yesterday's recipe suitable for dry skin, but you'll see them in different ratios.

Here's yesterday's recipe...TONER SUITABLE FOR DRY, SENSITIVE OR WRINKLED SKIN
20% witch hazel
30% aloe vera
32.5% hydrosol - chamomile, lavender, rose
0.5% allantoin
2% glycerin or Hydrovance
2% sodium lactate
3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7
2% hydrolyzed protein
4% water soluble oil (ester)

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
0.5% green tea extract
up to 1% other combined extracts
0.5% preservative

So what will we change? We don't need all those humectants. (You're using a moisturizer, so I'm assuming you have a ton of oils and humectants in there.) Choose one you like - glycerin, Hydrovance, sodium lactate, sodium PCA, and so on - and use that at 2%. You can leave out the cationic polymer and the water soluble oil as well (although I'd leave in a little cationic polymer because it's so lovely for our skin).

If you have AHA in your moisturizer, leave out the sodium lactate. You don't want too much exfoliating. If you don't have AHA, glycolic acid, lactic acid, or salicylic acid in your moisturizer, then add some to the toner! 2% sodium lactate and up to 3% something like Multifruit or Phytofruit is a lovely addition to a toner for wrinkled skin!

What extracts and hydrosols you use will depend upon what's in your moisturizer! You can use any hydrosol you like in the toner - chamomile, lavender, or rose are good choices - and generally green tea, chamomile, and grapeseed extract are good for dry skin.

As for hydrolyzed proteins, silk seems to be a good choice for dry skin - let's leave that alone at 2% in the heated phase - because of its low molecular weight. Again, we're not worried about film forming if you're putting a moisturizer over top of it.

So let's take a look at formulating this for dry skin with wrinkles.

TONER SUITABLE FOR DRY, RESISTANT SKIN WITH WRINKLES
HEATED PHASE
enough hydrosol to get to 100%
20% witch hazel
30% aloe vera
0.5% allantoin
2% humectant of choice
3% cationic polymer like honeyquat or polyquat 7
2% hydrolyzed protein

COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
0.5% green tea extract
0.5% other extract
0.5% preservative
up to 3% Phytofruit or Multifruit BSC or other AHA product, or 1% to 2% AHA on its own

The reason I have "hydrosol to make up 100%" listed is thanks to the different percentages of AHA or Multifruit you could use.

Again, I can't stress this enough - do not use sodium lactate and the AHA products at the same time. If it is in your moisturizer, choose another humectant and leave out the AHA!

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating for different skin types!

4 comments:

smr00 said...

Hi, love your blog!

I had a few questions about making toner - what is the exact purpose of allantoin? Also, instead of a hydrosol can you use water with essential oils? what is the advantage of using a hydrosol?

Valerie said...

I would like to create a sea salt toner for maturing skin for a dry climate. Looking around the site for a sea salt spray or toner but I don't see one. Would you be so kind, when you have a moment, to write a post about sea salt toners - the good bad and ugly? TIA Susan! Valerie

Valerie said...

Hi Susan! I am very curious about sea salt sprays and/or toner for mature skin but I don't see any mention on the site about these - if you have a chance and write a blog post about using sea salt toners - good bad ugly and a recipe for one!? TIA Susan!
Valerie

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Valerie. Why a sea salt toner? What does salt bring to dry skin? I don't see this as being a good idea, so I'm curious what you know about them and I can learn more! I would think you'd want loads of glycerin or humectants for dry skin as they hydrate very well.

Can't wait to hear your thoughts!