Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Formulating for your skin type: Body butter for wrinkled skin

If you are a wrinkled or pigmented skin type, you might feel a little left out of the recent posts on toner and body butter because I didn't go into specifics of formulating those products, and I apologize for neglecting you. It's hard to take into consideration every single skin type possibility in a post that doesn't end up taking a week to read. (And I know I already write too much in my posts!)

The key for the pigmented type is to include ingredients that might increase exfoliation and extracts that will reduce the pigmentation of spots. You don't necessarily want this to be an all over product, but a spot product that you can use on specific areas. To increase exfoliation, you might want to use salicylic acid or AHA or even 3% sodium lactate as your humectant. To reduce pigmentation, you could use liquorice extract or Vitamin C in the cool down phase of your products.

The wrinkled type is very much like the dry skin type in that you want to increase moisturization and occlusion, so we're using all the right stuff for your skin type. You want to include hydrolyzed proteins, silicones, and quaternary compounds, so you could use BTMS as your emulsifier or add some quaternary polymers like honeyquat or polyquat 7. And you want to use salicylic acid or AHA in your products to increase exfoliation. You can add these during the cool down phase at the proper amounts.

Both skin types can benefit from oils high in conjugated linoleic acid (CLA) like calendula oil, and wrinkled skin could benefit greatly from pomegranate oil. Use either or both at 10%.

If you are an oily skinned, wrinkled type like me, you want to increase the moisturizing ingredients not based on oils like humectants, hydrolyzed proteins, silicones, and quaternary compounds and reduce the butters to compensate.

So the key is really more about whether you're oily or dry because it's easy to adapt products to include those exfoliating and moisturizing extracts. Just remember to ensure you don't have a ton of other exfoliating ingredients in that mix (like sodium lactate at over 3%, some extracts) so you don't end up really exfoliated and sensitive!

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

You could never write too much in your posts! They are great! Thank you for all of them! :)