Saturday, February 6, 2010

Rosemary extract: Lotions

Rosemary extract is a great addition to any lotion, added at 0.5% to 1% during the cool down phase. Remember, we add it to the cool down phase because some of the polyphenols are heat sensitive, and we don't want to have it use all its awesome anti-oxidizing power fighting off the heat before you've even bottled the lotion!

What does rosemary bring to a lotion? The anti-oxidizing powers alone are worth the inclusion, but the idea that it might increase circulation and increase collagen (which will increase skin's elasticity) interests me greatly! I also think the very light film rosemary can create through the ursolic acid is always useful in protecting our skin from the outside world and keeping the goodness next to our skin. Okay, it isn't as occlusive as something like cocoa butter or dimethicone, but a little extra protection isn't a bad thing to me!
Here's my basic lotion recipe but you can use rosemary in any lotion, cream,

SWIFT'S BASIC LOTION FORMULA
WATER PHASE
70% water

OIL PHASE
15% oil
5% butter
3% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid
5% emulsifier of some kind

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance oil
0.5% to 1% preservatives

If you want to include rosemary extract in a recipe like this, always include it in the cool down phase at the suggested usage rate. If you want to include the essential oil, again that's included in the cool down phase. If you are using the hydrosol, substitute it for an equal amount of water.

To use the powdered extract, remove a little heated water from the water phase before you combine the two phases for emulsification. Let the extract completely dissolve, then add it to the lotion in the cool down phase.

BASIC LOTION MODIFIED WITH ROSEMARY
WATER PHASE
59.5% water
10% rosemary hydrosol

OIL PHASE
15% oil
5% butter
3% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid
5% emulsifier of some kind

COOL DOWN PHASE
1% fragrance oil
0.5% powdered rosemary extract
0.5% to 1% preservatives

Join me tomorrow for fun with rosemary extract in other products!

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