Saturday, February 13, 2010

Honeysuckle extract: Ultra mega formulating fun!

I love honeysuckle extract in anything I'm going to use on my face. I have acne prone skin, pale with a tendency to get very red, and I find it offers great anti-inflammation properties for me. Try it in a toner at 0.5% in the cool down phase after dissolving it in a little warm water. I like it in my mineral make-up products as well - try 0.5% in a finishing powder or foundation (at the same rate as allantoin). And it's nice in a facial cleanser (I like to combine it with chamomile for super mega anti-inflammatory awesomeness!)

I will refer you to the post on with formulating green tea - just substitute the words "honeysuckle extract" for "green tea extract".

Honeysuckle extract is a great addition to a shaving lotion or after shave lotion or spray. It soothes irritated skin, reduces redness, and offers a ton of anti-oxidants. Let's take a look at a shaving lotion.

What do we want in a shaving lotion? We want something that works when we're shaving, so we need lots of slip and glide. We want something that conditions, soothes, and reduces inflammation. We want a product that will rinse off but leave behind ingredients that will continue to soothe and reduce inflammation but offer moisturizing all day long.

First ingredient - Incroquat BTMS. Yes, it can feel drier as an emulsifier, but we'll compensate with a lot of slippery oils and other glidy ingredients. It is substantive, meaning it will form a thin layer on your skin and stay there, offering moisturizing throughout the day. To make it more substantive and offer more glide, I'll include some cetyl alcohol to the mix.

Oils - we want something glidy that offers great skin barrier repair protection and wound healing. I originally had jojoba and shea oil in here, but let's take a look at other oils. Jojoba is a good choice as it penetrates skin through the hair follicles, offering moisturizing and softening. It creates a non-occlusive layer on your skin, which is a great thing for post-shaved skin!

Hempseed oil would be a lovely choice in this recipe as the GLA it contains offers skin barrier repair, anti-itching, and moisturizing benefits, but it has a short shelf life. Avocado oil offers help with skin damage, skin protection, and skin regeneration. It's easily absorbed, so it will offer excellent moisturizing. But it might be a bit heavy here combined with the jojoba oil, so let's consider a few lighter oils. Soybean oil is filled with great anti-inflammatories (the phytosterols) and Vitamin E, to offer softening and moisturizing. It offers a lot of linoleic acid, which is great for skin barrier repair, and polyphenols with great anti-oxidizing potential. It's considered a light, slippery oil, so it would be a great addition to this lotion.

So let's go with jojoba oil and soy bean oil.

What about our extracts? Honeysuckle extract seems like a natural inclusions as it is a great anti-inflammatory and anti-redness ingredient. Chamomile would be a good addition as it is a fantastic anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. And what about rosemary? It is a good anti-inflammatory that offers analgesic properties. I am thinking of using powdered honeysuckle extract and chamomile and rosemary as either an extract or a hydrosol. I think I'll go with chamomile extract and rosemary hydrosol in this mixture. I'll replace 10% of the water amount with rosemary extract (and increase the original aloe vera content from 5% to 10%).

As with any lotion, I would like to include some hydrolyzed proteins and amino acids. I'm using Phytokeratin because it has both low and high molecular weight proteins - the low ones will penetrate the skin, the higher ones will form an occlusive film on your skin. And I'm adding 1% silk amino acids because I want increased slip and glide in the recipe, and they will penetrate the skin for internal moisturizing. And I have to have panthenol in anything that might be used on damaged skin.

What about our humectants? Since we will be rinsing off this product, sodium lactate and sodium PCA are poor choices. Including something like honeyquat will offer a humectant and a conditioner, so let's try that at 3% in this mix. (Another cationic polymer like polyquat 7 will work well here, too).

Finally, other additions. I'm thinking I'd like to include 2% dimethicone to this recipe because I need more occlusion and slip. And 2% cyclomethicone will help with slip and glide as well.

Okay! Let's formulate! Because the soy bean oil has a 6 to 12 month shelf life, I'd call this a 6 month shelf life product.

54.5% water
10% aloe vera
10% rosemary hydrosol
2% Phytokeratin
1% silk amino acids
3% honeyquat (or other cationic polymer)

3% Incroquat BTMS-50
2% cetyl alcohol
2% jojoba oil
3% soy bean oil

2% panthenol
2% dimethicone
2% cyclomethicone
0.5% honeysuckle extract
0.5% chamomile extract
0.5% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil
1% Vitamin E

Considering using this combination in something like an after-shave lotion or after shave spray!

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating with grapeseed extract!


Febe said...

I bought honeysuckle extract and chamomile extract. They are in powder form. I think you mentioned dissolving them in a little warm water before using. Should I subtract the water I use to dissolve the powder from the 54.4% water in the recipe? I am confused about how to use the powdered extracts. I love the idea and what they can do - just a little unsure of how to use. Thank you very much for any help you can provide.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Febe! Check out this post on how to use powdered extracts, which you can find in the extracts section of the blog. or in the FAQ. Have fun with extracts! I love how adding just a titch of a powdered something can make the product even better!