Monday, January 18, 2010

Tweaking body lotions!

So yesterday we took a look at how to make a winter time body lotion for my weather exposed skin - let's take a look at another skin concern? What about aging, really dry skin in the winter? What are the goals for something like this?

You'll want lots of oily oils. As we age, our sebum production is reduced drastically, eventually reaching the levels we saw in pre-pubescence, so we need some oil in there! We want oils with high levels of linoleic acid to help improve the skin's barrier functions, behave as an anti-inflammatory, and retain moisture. We want oils that offer moisturization and cell regeneration. And we want something to help with skin's barrier functions. Oh, and, of course, Vitamin E.

We'll want a butter in there as well to offer occlusion and moisturizing. Shea butter is occlusive and is supposed to be great for aging skin thanks to all the stearic acid that offers flexibility and elasticity to skin. I think I'll increase this to 10% in this recipe as this butter offers a lot of features I like!

With shea butter offering us great phytosterols, occlusion, and fatty acids to help with skin flexibility and protection, we can consider using lower amounts of less greasy oils. High GLA oils are a great inclusion for older skin, so why not consider either evening primrose or borage. Cranberry oil offers high levels of Vitamin E (moisturizing, softening) and phytosterols and will help increase skin's barrier functions. Pomegranate oil can offer an increase in the regeneration of skin cells, an increase in skin thickness, and a reduction in the destruction of collagen. But it doesn't have a lot of Vitamin E, so I'll have to add 1% to the lotion.

I think I'll go with 10% pomegranate oil, although any of those oils would be a great choice. (Remember my comment about using something because it's new - well, this one is new to me, so I'm including it in everything!)

I'm adding green tea extract to this mix as the polyphenols are great for older skin!

29% water
10% aloe vera
10% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
3% glycerin or other humectant
2% hydrolyzed protein
0.5% allantoin

10% oil combination of choice - 10% pomegranate
10% butter of choice - shea butter
3% cetyl alcohol
7.5% emulsifier (I like Polawax in this recipe)
2% IPM

2% panthenol
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
0.5% powdered green tea extract
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative

So what really changed? The water amount has decreased because I've included 1% Vitamin E and 0.5% powdered green tea extract, so I took 1.5% out of the water phase. The oil phase remains pretty much the same, so the emulsifier can remain the same.

This will be a thicker lotion than the previous lotions as we have included more butters in the mix, which thickens it up. It will be a greasier lotion, but I think we've compensated enough with the dry oil and the IPM, so it won't be too ridiculously oily.

Join me tomorrow for more tweaking!


Anonymous said...

Hi Susan. Perhaps I missed the procedure in a previous post, but do you hydrate your green tea extract before adding it to the cool down phase? I was also wondering if it were added to the water phase, do you think the heat compromise its properties?

I can't thank you enough for all your knowledge that you so kindly share. You are just awesome.


Anonymous said...

I have a similar question, I have a recipe from The Herbarie that calls for cucumber extract - liquid (which I forgot to buy at the time of order), but have ordered the powdered extract from another place. If it calls for 50g in water phase-how do I translate that for the powder. And should I use cucumber peel or seed powder, I have both.

Ditto the awesomeness!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Wendy. Yes, I take a bit of water out of the water phase before mixing the two phases together, let it cool a bit, then mix in the green tea extract to let it dissolve. I've found adding it straight to the cool down phase results in clumps!

From what I've been reading about green tea extract, the procyanidins are heat sensitive and adding it to the lotion or whathaveyou when it's too warm (over 60˚C) may result in the degradation of those flavonoids.

(I have posts coming up on this topic later this week!)

Pier said...

Hi Susan

I am looking for a cream like "cold cream" . Do you think the body lotion for aging skin would be about the same. If not, do you have any recipe which looks like.