Thursday, January 28, 2010

Green tea extract: Formulating with liquid extract

You can add liquid green tea extract to pretty much every product we saw yesterday, with the exception of the mineral make-up powders. The liquid extract can vary between suppliers, so check with your favourite shop to find out how they suggest you use it. I am using the liquid green tea extract from the Personal Formulator, suggested use of 5% to 10% in the cool down phase of my creations. When you are using the liquid version of this ingredient, make sure you compensate by removing 5% to 10% from the water phase of your creation! (Other extracts have other suggestions - the Herbarie is green tea extract and water, and can be used at 1 to 50%, whereas Lotioncrafter's is green tea extract, water, glycerin, and preservatives, and can be used at 0.1% to 2%. Follow the suppliers' suggestions!)

Green tea extract - powdered and liquid - can be used in hair care products. There are some studies showing this extract might help with hair growth (so far only proven in lab animals) and keratinocyte differentiation. Consider adding it to your conditioners as an anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and UV protectant ingredient. Consider it for a leave in conditioner as well at up to 5%.

Click here for a 14 page PDF tutorial on conditioners.

Because of all the anti-inflammatory and anti-redness qualities of green tea extract, it makes a perfect addition to a shaving lotion! (Original can be found here...) Since I've learned so much about the awesome power of aloe vera, I've increased that to 20% (from 5%), and I've included 5% liquid green tea extract in the cool down phase. If you want to use powdered extract, add it at 0.5% to 1% in the cool down phase and increase the water amount by 4% to 4.5%. If I wanted to increase the awesome power of green tea, I could substitute camellia oil for the jojoba or shea oil, but this would make it slightly drier, which isn't necessarily a good thing for a shaving lotion (which we want to be glidy and silky).

61.7% water
20% aloe vera
2% phytokeratin (or other hydrolyzed protein like oat, soy, corn, wheat, etc.)
1% hydrovance (or another humectant of choice, like sodium lactate)
1.1% hydrolyzed silk protein

3% Incroquat BTMS
2% cetyl alcohol
2.1% jojoba oil
2.6% shea oil

2% panthenol
5% liquid green tea extract
.5% preservative (Liquid Germall Plus at 0.5%, 1% for Germaben II)

Weigh the BTMS, cetyl alcohol, jojoba oil, and shea oil into a Pyrex jug. Weigh the water and aloe vera into another container. Put both containers into a double boiler, melt, and heat until the temperature reaches 70C. Hold for 20 minutes at 70˚C, then remove from the heat and blend the two containers together, mixing well. Leave for a bit, then mix again. When the temperature reaches 45˚C, add the phytokeratin, panthenol, hydrovance, silk, preservative, liquid green tea extract, and fragrance oil (up to 1%). Bottle when the mixture reaches room temperature. You can use a pump, disc top, or turret cap bottle.

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating with green tea butter and camellia oil.


Nedeia said...

Susan, do you think that there is a downside of using more than 2% of the green tea extract? I have a triple teas extract (green, white and honeybush) that I absolutely ADORE in everything (leave in or not), and I *should* be using it at max 2%. What if I want more, like 3 or 4%? What could go wrong?

This is water + glycerin + botanics + preservative. So... What could go wrong? sticky cream? I am not sure if too many antioxidants is a bad thing.... what's your oppinion?

catherine said...

Hi. I did a search on your blog for "green tea extract" and this was the first post that came up. I love finding these older recipes on your blog.

Just curious, the directions in this recipe didn't say "hold at 70 c for 20 minutes." Did you do that anyway? Or was it not necessary to hold at 70 c bc this was a shaving lotion and would be rinsed off.

Just wondering if maybe "holding" not necessary for rinse off products...

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Catherine! It was a mistake. Every lotion must be heated and held at 70˚C for 20 minutes! I've updated the recipe to reflect the way I like to write recipes now - heated water phase, heated oil phase, and cool down phase - with an update on the instructions! Thanks for the catch, Catherine! You're awesome!

Unknown said...

Hi there!

Does someone knows where I could find green tea extract (liquid) in Canada. It seems like Voyageurs soap doesn't carry it anymore