Monday, January 4, 2010

Formulating with oils - whipped butters for other skin types!

I must seem obsessed with whipped butters - whipped butters with shea and whipped butters with mango - and I've just posted one for Raymond's itchy skin - so I guess I am obsessed!

Let's take a look at what combinations we could create with our new knowledge of the various butters, oils, and exotic oils. Whipped butters are fairly simple to make and we don't have to wait for them to set overnight before using them!

Shea butter is a great butter for whipping. It feels very smooth on your skin, but is kinda greasy to some people. It has a lot of phytosterols, so it is good for reducing inflammation, itching, and redness. The stearic acid offers improved moisture retention, increased skin flexibility, and skin damage repair. The oleic acid is well absorbed by our skin, offering moisturizing and regenerating to skin, and anti-inflammatory properties. The allantoin acts as an occlusive ingredient, offering wound healing properties.

What's your goal? For which skin type are you formulating? You've already seen me formulate this for my husband - 60% shea butter, 10% coconut oil, 10% sesame seed oil, and 10% evening primrose oil - with the goal of reducing his itchiness, inflammation, and dry skin.

If I were to formulate this for my mother, I have to consider what her skin needs. She has older skin, which means her sebum production is reduced and she has reduced levels of linoleic acid. I already have a ton of oleic acid in the shea butter, so I want to consider how to get more linoleic acid into the mix.

Rice bran oil offers a great balance of oleic and linoleic acids, some Vitamin E, and a ton of phytosterols. It also offers squalene - which I know my mother likes - and oryzanol, a polyphenol that offers moisturizing, softening, and anti-inflammation properties.
I know she likes squalene, which offers help to chapped and weather damaged skin, and increases cell regeneration.

So I could make a nice whipped butter for my mom with 80% shea butter, 18% rice bran oil, 1% fragrance or essential oil, and 1% Vitamin E. (These are very long lived oils - up to 1 year for the rice bran oil, 2 years for the shea butter - but I figure a little Vitamin E won't hurt!)

If I were to formulate this for me for the winter months, I have to include something to help with dry, weather damaged skin. (I tend to forget my coat or sweater when I go out and I'm always warm, so my skin is constantly assaulted by the rain and snow outside, and very hot buildings inside!)

I am sure I am destroying the barrier repair abilities of my skin every day, so I need a barrier ingredient. Shea is already a good barrier ingredient, so that's a bonus. I am going to include 2% dimethicone as it is another great barrier ingredient, and I like the way it feels on my skin. Both will be occlusive to protect me from the outside world.

I need something to help my skin increase its barrier repair abilities - linoleic acid and GLA to the rescue! I'm thinking something like borage or evening primrose oil might be a good choice. But what about hempseed oil? It's a high linoleic acid oil with about 5% GLA, and it contains nice levels of Vitamin E. Because I'm making this for me, I can put a "best before" date on it and know I will actually abide by it! So I think this might be a very good choice.

Or coconut oil. I like coconut oil in a whipped butter, and the ferulic acid and catechins offer anti-inflammatory and anti-itching properties. (I'm not itching, but it might happen!) Virgin coconut oil might be a great addition - all the goodness of coconut oil with more polyphenols.

I think I'll go with 70% shea, 20% coconut oil, 8% hemp seed oil, 1% fragrance oil, and 1% Vitamin E. (The Vitamin E is necessary with the hemp seed oil). I could also use 80% shea, 18% evening primrose or borage oil, 1% Vitamin E, and 1% fragrance oil to get a huge amount of GLA and a slightly less greasy whipped butter.

If you have someone in your life with incredibly dry skin, a very moisturizing, greasy whipped butter is probably the best choice. You might want to consider using some cocoa butter - it contains 25 to 30% palmitic acid, which is a great occlusive ingredient - or 2% dimethicone to make it more occlusive. Shea is probably the better choice because it is greasier than mango butter.

Squalane might be a great addition as it moisturizes well and will penetrate skin, but it can get a little pricey. Soybean oil is a fantastic moisturizer filled with linoleic acid and tons of phytosterols and Vitamin E for moisturizing and anti-oxidizing features. Sunflower or sesame might be a great addition - both contain nice levels of linoleic acid with both having nice levels of Vitamin E and really great levels of phytosterols.

Consider a dry skin whipped butter with 80% shea butter, and 19% those other oils, and 1% Vitamin E.

If you have someone in your life who needs a whipped butter but isn't a fan of greasy feeling products, you can try mango butter as the base. It is an astringent oil, so it will feel drier, and it offers many of the same benefits as shea butter with some great polyphenols and tannins. It will have a shelf life of up to 3 years, but the oils you add will bring that best before date down.

Try using avocado oil and mango butter together for a dry butter. Or if you want more linoleic acid, you could include grapeseed oil (with a bold reminder about the best before date) or borage, evening primrose, or carrot tissue oil.

You can add 3% Dry-Flo to your creation to make it feel less greasy. Add slowly into anhydrous applications and stir until well blended. It is okay to use this in temperatures up to 70˚C. Or you could add 2% IPM to reduce the greasiness. Add this to the heated phase. You can use one or the other or both, if you want.

75% mango butter
18% dry feeling oil of choice - perhaps 10% carrier oil, 8% exotic oil?
3% Dry-flo
2% IPM
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance or essential oil

Heat the mango butter, oils, and IPM until the creation has melted. If wanted, add the Dry-Flo now. Remove from the heat, add the Vitamin E and fragrance oil and mix. If you want it whippy, get out the whisk attachments on your mixer and beat until stiffened. This could take a while, so feel free to whip it a bit, then put it in the fridge or freezer for 5 to 10 minutes, then whip it again.

Join me tomorrow for fun with solid scrub bars!


Megan said...

What is Dry Flo and IPM?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Take a look at the ingredients list to the right and check them out there!