Monday, January 4, 2010

Formulating with oils - whipped butters for itchy skin!

Apparently I am illustrating these posts with Raymond in his Hallowe'en costumes...Although most of us wouldn't recognize it, the kids at the party at the library yelled "Reno" when he came in (from Final Fantasy). I just think he looks cute!

I think I'll try formulating a very thick, rich anhydrous butter to help with Raymond's itchy legs and dry winter skin! I know I said yesterday he wasn't a fan of having greasy hands, so perhaps I could apply it for him (he does like wifely attention!) or he could learn to love the greasiness when he knows how wonderful it will make his legs feel!

Any of the butters will do for this application - all help moisturize, form an occlusive layer, and increase moisturize retention, flexibility in skin, and skin damage repair. I like mango butter or shea butter in a whipped butter the most, and I do have a lot of shea butter around, so I'll choose that as the base.

Because I'm no longer worried about greasiness and heaviness, I'm not limited by the oils I will use. I'll start with the thought of using 60% shea butter, and work from there. Shea is a great choice here as it is occlusive and contains a ton of great phytosterols to help with inflammation and itching, as well as allantoin to help with healing those wounds.

Coconut oil would be a great option here. With a two year life span, the lauric acid makes it a moisturizing and softening oil, and the ferulic acid offers anti-inflammatory and anti-itching properties. It also melts nicely, so he doesn't have to drag the butter over his legs. (Virgin coconut oil would be great, but I don't have any at the moment...)

Sesame seed oil would be a great addition, although it will reduce the shelf life to 9 to 12 months. It contains a ton of Vitamin E (700 ppm) and amazing levels of phytosterols to help with inflammation and itching. It is non-staining - which is mostly irrelevant as the other oils are staining -and very moisturizing. The linoleic acid will help with his skin's barrier repair.

I still want to include some evening primrose oil for the GLA, which helps with skin barrier repair, decreases transepidermal water loss, increases skin hydration and flexibility. Gallic acid is a wound healer, and I need something for the scratches on his legs!

And olive oil! The phytosterols are anti-inflammatory and anti-itching, and it's a humectant! Plus is contains squalene, which is nice for softening and moisturizing.

I could go with the oils I used yesterday, but I wanted to try something new!

60% shea butter
10% coconut oil
10% sesame seed oil
10% evening primrose
10% olive oil

Melt the shea and coconut oils slightly. Remove from heat, add other oils, and whip. You can add 1% fragrance or essential oils if you want.

Let's take a look at other oil combinations in whipped butters in part 2!


Anonymous said...

I also make a whipped butter product. I started out using evening primrose oil, but found that the product went rancid pretty quickly. I switched to babassu oil and love the product!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous. Evening primrose oil has a shelf life of 6 months, which is one of the reasons I freeze mine between uses! Babassu oil would be great in this recipe!

Michelle said...

Oh! You can freeze Evening Primrose? Afraid to open mine until I know exactly what I am doing with it. It is in the fridge now. To freeze, can I keep it in the glass bottle it came in?
Just starting to review your (extensive and wonderful) blog. Thank you for all the ideas.

Kara said...

We usually use aloe butter in the winter time for our itchy dry skin. However, my daughter complains about not liking the greasiness of it. In this posted recipe could you substitute aloe gel and babassu oil for the evening primrose and coconut oil respectfully?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Kara! No, you cannot use aloe Vera gel because it is water soluble and would not mix with the oil soluble butters without an emulsifier. You can use Babassu instead of the coconut oil, and it would feel really lovely. Any product that is all oils and butters will feel greasy. There's no way around that. You can, however, make a lotion or go a search for the anti-itch spray I made for my husband. You could use the aloe Vera there.

If you're interested in learning how to make s lotion, check out the newbie recipe in the newbie section of the blog!

Wanda said...

Hi Swift:
I have very itchy skin especially on my legs and have just discovered whipped body butter! The latest recipe I have tried is

Shea butter and mango butter 45% (total--I used approx half of each)
Coconut 🌴 oil 22%
Hemp oil 19%
Sesame oil 10%
beeswax 🐝 3%
vitamin E oil 1%
arrowroot powder (0.5 % optional)
Essential oils (optional--I used lavender and roman chamomile)

I wanted an anhydrous body butter that I could squeeze through a GoToob silicone dispensing tube and so far it seems to be working! My question is would replacing one of my oils with an herbal oil such as calendula oil make it more effective for itchy skin?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Wanda! Is this version working for you so far? It looks lovely. If I were to add something, calendula is an awesome choice, as would be something with a lot of phytosterols to help with inflammation, like rice bran, pumpkin seed, soy bean, or sesame seed. I would consider using evening primrose oil or borage oil (the latter at at least 20%) to help with speeding up skin's barrier repair mechanisms.

Also consider doing something like making a water based spray for under the whipped butter to help with hydrating dry skin as well as moisturizing with the oils. A simple spray of aloe vera and rose water or witch hazel before you put on the whipped butter would go a long way!

Wanda said...

Hi Susan

Yes my whipped body butter certainly has been helping and my skin is much smoother. Overall it's the best my legs have looked in the winter even with all this Vancouver/Lower mainland snow and "cold" weather we've been having . I will try the calendula oil and pumpkin oil for my next batch I make since I have some. Plus I will use the aloe Vera plus hydrosol spray before I put on the whipped butter that you recommended.

I will order some borage oil from Voyageur Soap and Candle with my next order from them...(I am trying to hold off as I have an accumulation of oils and butters at home right now 😬).

Thanks for the wonderful informative blog!