You want something occlusive to provide barrier protection, something to help with skin barrier repair, and something to moisturize and soften. So let's take a look at the butters, starting with mango butter. This is a much drier feeling butter than cocoa or shea butter, so it's a great place to start. Or consider using something like avocado butter - it's a very dry butter with a fatty acid profile similar to avocado oil, that will offer moisturizing and softening with a drier feel. Or consider kokum butter, a very hard butter that has astringent qualities.
Hey, I haven't covered kokum or the other butters yet! It's on my to-do list, so look for it soon!
As for the oils, you could use grapeseed oil - high linoleic oil to help with skin barrier repair with some good phytosterols - with hazelnut oil - high oleic oil with a lot of Vitamin E and phytosterols - or camellia oil - high oleic oil with a long shelf life and anti-oxidizing properties (great in the place of olive oil, but lighter!). A combination like this would be quite astringent for people who don't like really greasy lotions, especially on their hands!
If you want something to feel drier, you can switch the emulsifier to BTMS, and use some drier oils (just remember you can't use the preservative Tinosan with a cationic product). And you can use either stearic acid or cetyl alcohol - the cetyl will glide more but feel a little greasier, but in the name of not having a lotion that is so non-greasy it just sits there, I'm going with cetyl alcohol.
Hydrosols, aloe, allantoin, and all those other things won't contribute to a product being more or less greasy, so we'll include them at the rates we did yesterday. I am going to keep in the cyclomethicone but remove the dimethicone to be less greasy. And the IPM will make it feel less greasy! I have to add some Vitamin E because I'm using shorter shelf life oils - 1% should be just fine.
WINTER TIME HAND LOTION, modified to be less greasy
10% aloe vera
10% hydrosol of choice
2% sodium PCA or sodium lactate
3% glycerin or other humectant
2% hydrolyzed protein
15% oils of choice
5% mango butter
3% cetyl alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
1% fragrance oil
0.5% to 1% preservative
So what's the difference between my previous recipes and this one? The oils have changed, the emulsifier is different. I've returned to cetyl alcohol and added Vitamin E, and I've removed the the dimethicone to make for a drier lotion.
There isn't a huge difference in these three recipes on paper, but you'll notice a difference on your skin! And that's kinda the key to lotion making. There are only so many variations you can make on a lotion, and it's the changing of the oils, the water, and the additions that makes each lotion different.
Let's take a closer look at lotion tweaking tomorrow!