Sunday, January 10, 2010

Formulating with oils - a body butter!

Wasn't the point of all the oil research supposed to be making lotions? I mean, I've been going on since October 10th about oils and butters and exotic oils, when am I going to get to the lotion making? Well, here's a start!

I've been trying different things to help my wonderful husband's itchy legs - solid scrub bar, anhydrous spray, whipped butter, water based spray, and an oil based spray - but I thought I'd try to put together all of the things I put into the other creations together in a body butter. (He's actually been using my body butter in cream cheese frosting scent for the last few weeks, so I know he'll use it!)

I have modified this recipe so many times, I can barely keep count! I've modified it with exciting additives, with cocoa butter, with hydrolyzed proteins, and with the HLB system with different emulsifiers. So let's get back to the original recipe. (If you want to know why I'm including what I'm including or want the instructions on how to make it, please click on the link!)

60% water
2% sodium lactate or glycerin

10% oils
15% shea butter
6% emulsifier
3% cetyl alcohol

0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend

Let's take a look at how we can modify it with our goal in mind - creating a body butter that could help my husband with his very dry, itchy legs and the wounds he creates when he scratches!

The water phase can be very similar to the water based spray we made the other day. I want to eliminate the water and use aloe and a hydrosol - chamomile or lavender - to help with the itchiness. I have to reduce the water phase down to include more water phase ingredients like hydrolyzed proteins and panthenol.

I definitely need some good humectants - I'll choose sodium PCA at 3% because it's new and I want to play with it, but you could use sodium lactate (2% max), honeyquat, glycerin, Hydrovance, and so on. I want to include my hydrolyzed protein as a film former, so I'll use that at 2%. I like allantoin for winter applications, so I'll include that at 0.5%.

Because I'm not limited to water soluble ingredients, I'm not going to bother with the water soluble oils here. I'll save those for water based applications, and choose some oils with the qualities I like!

I'll keep the shea butter - I have a ton of it in the house and I like the features it offers this body butter. As for the oils, there are too many choices! I could go very exotic and use sea buckthorn (lots of palmitoleic acid) and a high linoleic oil, like sunflower or soy bean oil, or I could use some carrier oils like macadamia nut (lots of palmitoleic acid, high oleic), coconut oil (lauric acid), or sesame oil (balanced between oleic and linoleic acid, good phytosterols, good Vitamin E). Hmm. I think I'll go exotic this time and choose the sea buckthorn oil - 6% - coupled with soybean oil - 4% - and see what happens!

As for the emulsifier...well, normally I wouldn't be a fan of the BTMS. I find it very drying. But I think in this application the cationic charge would be a good thing - more substantive to skin - and the drying part wouldn't be a huge issue as I have a ton of greasy oils in there.

The cetyl alcohol helps with glide and substantivity, so I'll leave that in.

And I'm adding 2% IPM to help make it feel less greasy. This might seem pointless - it's kind of a greasy product to begin with - but it might make a difference. Plus, it's a penentration enhancer, so it might take some of the good ingredients into the skin!

The panthenol is a must here - it helps wound healing - so I'll include that. I do like silicones in a body butter to help it glide and to provide barrier protection, so I'll include dimethicone and cylomethicone at 2% each. The cyclomethicone will also offer a more powdery feel, which isn't a bad thing.

I would never leave out a preservative, so I'm including Liquid Germall Plus at 0.5%. You can use other preservatives at the recommended amount, but as this is a cationic lotion (the BTMS changes the charge from neutral to positive) you can't use Tinosan.

I love this body butter in cream cheese frosting scent (from Brambleberry), so I could use 1% fragrance oil in here. I could use essential oils as well at safe levels.

So what have we created?

25% aloe vera liquid
25% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
2% hydrolyzed protein
3% sodium PCA
0.5% allantoin

15% shea butter
10% oils - 6% sea buckthorn oil, 4% soybean oil
3% cetyl alcohol
2% IPM

2% panthenol
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
0.5% to 1.5% preservative
1% fragrance oil

A note on the emulsifier: I've chosen to use 6% BTMS. If you want to use e-wax or Polawax, you would want to use 1/4 of the oil phase, which is 34%, meaning you need 8.5% emulsifier.

Join me tomorrow for more fun formulating with lotions when we make a hand lotion!


Michele Clarke said...

Susan how do you get 34 for the oil phase? I added all but the BTMS and come up with 30%

Catherine said...

Hi my names Catherine and I just started reading your blog a couple of weeks ago. I had the same problem your husband has with dry itchy legs, I went to the dermatologist to ask what was going on and she said its because the water here (I'm currently living in France) is high in calcium and I have atopic skin. She recommended a soapless shower oil for me to use and it completely fixed up my dry itchy legs and arms.
If you could create a recipe for a soapless soap that would be awesome. I've been trying to find one online and the most I can figure out is that it's an oil base with an emollient that helps to clean your skin and not leave your skin greasy.
You should give it a try I'm sure it would be a good product for your husband to try out

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Catherine! My husband has vitiligo, and his itchiness seemst to come from that, and we have it relatively under control now. This is a great idea for a product he could use. I've used your post in today's Weekend Wonderings with some links to a two recipes that might interest you. Thanks for the great idea!

WEND said...

Hi I'm to took making my own products. I'm a little confused when it come to % but shouldn't this add up to 100% I count 94%

d.anaya said...

Hi Susan I would like to post a review of your recipe for Body Butter for Itchy, Winter Skin.
I tweeked it a little from your original recipe using some ingredients from another Body Butter recipe for Mature Dry Skin.
The recipe is as follows:
Heated Water Phase:
20% Aloe Vera Juice
20% Distilled Water
10% Chamomile Hydrosol
2% Phytokeratin
3% Glycerin
.5% Allantoin

Heated Oil Phase:
10% Shea Butter
5% Cocoa Butter
4% Evening Primrose Oil
4% Meadowfoam Seed Oil
2% Almond Oil
7% E-Wax
3# Stearic Acid
2% IPM

Cool Down Phase:
2% Panthenol
2% Cyclomethicone
2% Dimethicone
1% Lemongrass Sage Fragrance Oil
.5% Germall Plus preservative

Total = 100%

It came out very lovely and not to heavey at all. I used a stick blender for 3 minutes and it emulsified perfectly.
It feels very good and light not heavy. It goes on smoothly gliding very well until it is blended into the skin thoroughly.
It absorbed into the skin rather quickly leaving my skin very smooth and soft.
The only thing I don't like about many of these recipes is how the Glycerin leaves my skin shiny after applying the lotions and butters. I want to try the Sodium PCA to see if it will leave my skin looking better and not shiny. One other problem is I live in Arizona and it's quite hot and humid here right now and my arms were seating very badly and I remembered you said that the Glycerin would cause that, another reason I want to go with a different humectant.
I love this butter and look forward to using it in the winter time, now I'm going to use your recipe for a summer time butter and modify it slightly for mature skin...
Thank you for all you do for us you are a wonderful lady.

I personally would like to see more lotion and body butter recipes using Lanolin, I want to use it but I don't know how to incorporate it into a recipe... I know it will feel so beautiful on our skin and I would like to see some recipes on this ingredient.