I need a nice watery base for this. I could use water, but why not use aloe vera? It's soothing and moisturizing, increases skin's hydration, and can speed wound healing. And I thought of using lavender hydrosol as well. It, too, is soothing and can help with chapped skin.
I want lots of humectants in this. I have a ton to choose from. Glycerin might be too sticky here and would make the mixture thicker. But it is very effective, so I think I'll include it at 1% or 2%. I just bought sodium PCA and it is a very effective humectant, so some of this at up to 2% would be a great addition. I also have hexylene glycol and propylene glycol, both of which would be good at up to 5%, and Hydrovance. Hmm, too many choices!
I definitely need a conditioning agent. Polyquat 7 is nice, but a little sticky and gooey. Honeyquat is both a humectant and a conditioning agent, so this would be a good choice here. I think I'll go with honeyquat at 5%.
Water soluble oils will help form a film and offer some moisturizing. I have both olive oil and sunflower oil in water soluble format, so which should I choose? Olive oil is a high oleic acid oil that also acts as a humectant. It is well absorbed into the skin, and contains some good phytosterols. Sunflower oil is a high linoleic acid oil - which is great for skin barrier repair - and it does contain some nice phyosterols as well. As I'm more worried about skin barrier repair than another humectant, I'll go with sunflower oil at 5%.
And a hydrolyzed protein will form a film and retain moisture. If I choose silk or phytokeratin, they will penetrate the skin; oat protein won't. What's more important here? I don't have much film forming going on in this recipe, so I think the hydrolyzed oats are a good choice. They'll work with the sunflower oil and conditioner to create a light, occlusive layer.
Panthenol is always a good choice for skin repair, so I'll include it at 2 to 3%.
If I had some water soluble dimethicone, I'd probably include it here at 2% or so. But I don't have it...yet.
I've been reading a lot about extracts lately, and I think I might include green tea extract - filled with polyphenols that can offer anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidizing, and anti-itching properties - and chamomile extract to offer soothing properties. I'll included these powdered extracts at 0.5% each.
Wow, this looks a lot like my toner, except for the water soluble oils. But I'm using the ingredients in higher amounts here.
Finally, we need preservative. 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus is my normal preservative.
I could include some essential oils here - tea tree might be nice for anti-bacterial properties, or maybe some peppermint (not good on open wounds here) - at appropriate levels, but I figure I'll wait to see what he thinks of the spray in general.
So let's put it all together!
41% aloe vera (liquid, not gel)
40% lavender hydrosol (or chamomile hydrosol)
2% sodium PCA
5% water soluble sunflower oil
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% powdered green tea extract
0.5% powdered chamomile extract
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
Weigh the heated phase - except the allantoin - in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Sprinkle the allantoin in the water when it has heated to about 50˚C and stir until dissolved. When the allantoin has fully dissolved, remove from heat.
When the temperature reaches 45˚C, remove a bit of water from the heated phase and mix it with the powdered extracts, until they are dissolved. Add back to the water, then add the other ingredients. Mix very well.
When cooled, bottle in a spray bottle and give to your itchy loved one!
Join me tomorrow for more formulating fun!