Thursday, February 11, 2010

Chamomile extract: Let's formulate!

So how can we get the awesome power of chamomile into our products? It's easy when we have the hydrosol and extract at affordable prices!

Since I've beaten the toner recipe to death over the last few weeks, let's take a look at a lotion we could create to include the anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidizing nature of chamomile extract.

Let's say you're formulating a lotion for dry skin prone to redness and inflammation. We already know we want to include our extract at 0.5% of the cool down phase (after being dissolved), so let's take a look at other ingredients that could help!

I know I want very moisturizing, very occlusive ingredients in this lotion. I want a butter with lots of stearic acid for moisturizing and palmitic acid for occlusion. I think I'll go with mango butter in this application - it contains anti-inflammatory features and great anti-oxidants. It's not as occlusive as shea or cocoa butter, but I really like the anti-inflammatory features.

As for the oils, a high oleic oil will help with an increase in moisturization, a reduction in inflammation, and an increase in skin cell regeneration. Linoleic acid will help soothe itchy, dry skin, increase moisture retention, and reduce inflammation, as well as helping to improve skin's barrier functions. Since it's for our body, I can make a thicker lotion to make sure it stays on. I'm thinking either rice bran oil or sesame seed oil for the nice balance of fatty acids. Sesame seed oil offers great anti-inflammatory features and has a great level of Vitamin E. Rice Bran oil can also offer anti-inflammatory features but offers more moisturizing. I think I'll go with rice bran oil.

Do I need an exotic oil in here? Calendula oil would offer some great inflammation features, but I think I have that covered. I'm looking for maximum moisturization now or help with increasing skin's barrier functions. Cranberry, evening primrose, borage, or sea buckthorn oil would work well here. I think I'll leave this out for now, but you can include these if you like...

As usual, I want some great non-oil moisturizers in here so I'll add 2% panthenol and 2% hydrolyzed protein (cromoist, oat protein, is a good one for forming films as opposed to sinking into the skin). I need my preservative at 0.5% and fragrance oil or essential oil at 1%.

Since this will likely be a greasy lotion, I will include IPM to reduce that feeling, and I always include silicones. Feel free to leave them out and increase the water amount, or substitute for other oils as I have compensated for 4% extra oil in the emulsifier amount.

And I think I'm going to include some green tea extract at 0.5% in the cool down phase. It is a good anti-oxidant that will help with inflammation and redness, and increase wound healing, which could be a factor for people with very dry skin (the chapping and little cracks are considered wounds).

I think I'll go with a variation on the body lotion posted here....The changes are in green...

30% water
10% aloe vera
10% chamomile hydrosol
3% glycerin or other humectant
2% hydrolyzed protein

15% rice bran oil
5% mango butter

3% cetyl alcohol
7.5% emulsifier (I like Polawax in this recipe)
2% IPM

2% panthenol
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
0.5% chamomile extract
0.5% green tea extract
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating with honeysuckle extract!

1 comment:

Michelle said...

Thank you for sharing, I love this!