Zinc oxide cream is intended to create a barrier between the outside world and the damaged skin, so we want something that is going to penetrate our skin as well as forming an occlusive barrier. We want to include some oils that will soothe inflamed skin and others that will help with barrier repair - so we want something very thick, like castor oil, and something that will help heal skin, like sea buckthorn. A humectant would be very nice - castor acts as a humectant and we'll add a little glycerin, sodium lactate, or honeyquat to the mix - and panthenol would be a good addition as it can heal inflammation and wounds. I'm adding a hydrolyzed protein to the mix - silk would be a good choice as it has a low molecular weight and can penetrate skin - and a cationic polymer like honeyquat (although if you've used it as your humectant, don't double up!) because it will increase the moisture uptake ability of our skin, and this product is all about moisturizing and healing (you can use another cationic polymer like Celquat or polyquat 7 - condition-eze 7 - if you wish. If you use Celquat, your mixture will be a little thicker, so only use 0.5% of it!)
As with all the products we make, do not make any claims about the ability of zinc oxide to cure anything! We all know it works very well with chapped skin and we've chosen our ingredients to maximize the healing process, but we cannot make any claims without testing this cream, and I certainly don't have the money or energy to prove that! So please don't make claims you can't support!
ZINC OXIDE CREAM
5% emulsifying wax
3% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid
10% castor oil
5% sea buckthorn oil
66% distilled water - you can use up to 10% aloe vera or a lovely hydrosol here
3% humectant of choice - honeyquat, glycerin, hydrovance (if you're using sodium lactate, use 2% and up the water by 1%)
2% cationic polymer (for Celquat, use 0.5% and if you're using honeyquat as your humectant, leave this out and up the water by 2%)
2% hydrolyzed silk (or other hydrolyzed protein)
COOL DOWN PHASE
1% Vitamin E
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice (I use 0.5% Germall Plus)
20% oil or water soluble zinc oxide (add all the ingredients, and when you've added the cool down phase mix it well, then add the zinc oxide until it is well blended!)
(Yes, I know this doesn't add up to 100% but 120% - that's because I didn't factor in the zinc oxide. I realize it's my mistake...)
If you want a very thick cream that stays on very well, use stearic acid. If you are more worried about glide, then use cetyl alcohol. I tend to use stearic acid for this recipe.
If you are well versed in using essential oils, you could add some healing type oils to this zinc oxide cream at safe levels.
This zinc oxide recipe can be used as a mineral make-up eye shadow primer. I love this stuff for that purpose! You can switch out the sea buckthorn for fractionated coconut oil - it's lighter - and add a little IPM (2%, oil phase, remove 2% from water phase) to make it feel a little less greasy. I also add hydrolyzed silk protein for extra glide! I know it sounds weird to use it for that purpose, but try it, you will love it!
Join me tomorrow for more formulating fun!