Thursday, December 3, 2009

We have another challenge - shower jellies!

Susan wrote this in response to my request for more product duplication challenges:
My daughter loves the bath jelly from Lush and I am going broke. Could you have a go at the recipe?

I can't say no to a fellow Susan (by the way - want to join the Association for Changing the name of that spinning thing you put in the middle of the table from Lazy Susan to something else? Ikea calls it a Snudda. What a fun word! But I digress!)

Her daughter's favourites are Woosh and Sweetie Pie, so let's take a look at those ingredients.

SWEETIE PIE SHOWER JELLY
Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cherry Infusion (Prunus cerasus), Glycerine, Propylene Glycol, Coconut Infusion (Cocos nucifera), Perfume, Carrageenan Extract (Chondrus crispus), Bergamot Oil (Citrus bergamia), Cassis Absolute (Ribes nigrum), Cypress Oil (Cupressus sempervirens), *Limonene, *Linalool, FD&C Blue No. 1, D&C Red No. 33, Methylparaben, Irridescent Glitter (Polyethylene terephthalate and Acrylates copolymer).

If we break it down we have sodium laureth sulfate, glycerin, propylene glycol, carrageenan extract, preservative (methylparaben), colours and glitter, and fragrance. Water enters the picture as the cherry and coconut infusion.

WHOOSH SHOWER JELLY
Honey Water (Mel Aqua), Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Glycerine, Propylene Glycol, Carrageenan Extract (Chondrus crispus), Perfume, Fresh Lemon Juice (Citrus limonum), Fresh Grapefruit Juice (Citrus grandis), Fresh Lime Juice (Citrus aurantifolia), Grapefruit Oil (Citrus grandis), Rosemary Oil (Rosmarinus officinalis), Geranium Oil (Pelargonium crispum), *Citral, *Geraniol, *Citronellol, *Limonene, *Linalool, FD&C Blue No. 1, Methylparaben.

Again, if we break this down we have water (honey water), sodium laureth sulfate, glycerine, propylene glycol, carageenan extract, perfume, citrus juices, colour, and preservative. Effectively we have water, a surfactant, a few humectants, a thickener/geller, fragrance, colour, and preservative.

This is a product that is definitely surfactant based - it's a cleanser after all - that's thickened enough to stand up on its own and not turn into goo, but remains wobbly. Some of them are clear, some are white.

Susan offers the following advice...

1. Gelatin does work but is susceptible to warmer temps and does not freeze well (although I did not have dipropylene glycol). Otherwise, this was an okay product.

2. Agar Agar (my sub for carrageen) was harder to work with and did not want to gel when dipropylene glycol was added. The agar also reacted and started clumping when I added my liquid surfactants in . Total bust!

If you want to play along, write to me (Swift, aka Susan) and let me know! (Petra's already in, so you know this is going to be fun!)

The rules? You must keep relatively close to the ingredients in the original product. (If you followed the last challenge, you know I was itching to add some emulsifiers and conditioning agents but could not as they were not included in the original recipe.) I think it's fair to change the gelling agent - I have no idea where to get it! - and change the surfactants. You can use the infusions and juices if you want. You must include a preservative in this recipe as it contains water.

If you want your results posted here, please send me the recipe you used in percentages, preferably with a picture. Give me a short write up indicating how you came to try this version, the process of making it, and what you thought of the end result. If you want to indicate what you're going to try for the next version, that's great, too!

The challenge starts....now! The end date - whenever we figure it out! Happy formulating! I can't wait to see what happens next!!!

23 comments:

Petra said...

I'm excited!!! I will need some time to get ingredients though...

I honestly think that the carageenan (Irish moss) is key and plan on using it (assuming I can find it locally). ~Petra

Susan said...

Petra,

You can get carageenan from your local beer making store. It is used as a clarifying agent. You might not find it in the powder form.

Petra said...

Thnaks Susan, I thought I saw it there... I will have to check tonight.

What does the Propylene Glycol bring to the equation? I don't have that either. Is it there as a humectant? But there is glycerin in there as well. I think I will try without the Propylene Glycol first and see what happens. Ideally, I would love to use honey instead, since we are in the honey business.

On the way home, I will have to stop at Lush again to do some "research".

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Propylene glycol is a humectant and emollient. It can also help solidify things like deodorants when used with sodium stearate. If it's in there as a humectant, then honey would work really well (although it might be slightly stickier, but nice!) If it's in there as a gelling agent, it might be essential. I have to pick some up - I had a bit, but it ended up being in attempt #1 which was just awful (more on this in a few days).

I have to get to Lush. It's just a pain to get into the city during this time of year. I avoid malls like I avoid H1N1 (which is to say I'm exposed to it in my job, but I try to limit my exposure to a few minutes!)

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Great suggestion, Susan! I'll stop by on my way home from work tonight!

Susan said...

These jellies are advertised to go into your freezer. I think the glycol also changes the way the jellies freeze. Jellies freeze to an opaque and thick jello. The texture is almost like the borax/glue polymer that my kids make in science class.

Susan said...

You guys are great! Your lab challenges reminds me of Professor Utonium. I'm almost expecting Swift to post "Today, I created the PowerPuff Girls" LOL

Petra said...

Dang it! I think you're right! I guess I have to stop at the farm supply store for some PG.

Dirty said...

Hi There
Here is the recipe Lush uses.
Much easier that the guess work on this site
35% Water
30% Surfactant
25% Glycerine
7% Mono Glycol
1.5% Seaweed extract
1.3% Fragrance
.2% Preservative

Your welcome to contact me if you need help with the combination.

The Seaweed extract is Carageenan extract kappa

daCoach said...

Hello

Any updates on this challenge, I am failing but would love to speak to Dirty. Are you able to reach out to me?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Dirty: It's fun to figure something out and "guess" at the ingredient combinations - that's the point of the challenges. And the guesses won't always be right - the fun part is making something, testing it, tweaking it and so on - and we might come up with something even more awesome than the original along the way!

daCoach: No, I have no way to get in touch with Dirty. His/her blogger profile is not public.

I haven't had time lately to get to this challenge, but I'm hoping to get into the workshop some time this week to play around! Life gets in the way of crafting too much!

Anonymous said...

Well You could easily just get some unflavored gelatin, a tsp. of iodized salt and 1/2 cup or 1/4 cup of liquid gel soap and make it.
But that wouldn't follow the " keep close to the regular ingredients"
there are multiple videos on how to make your own.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous. I've tried the gelatin version (years ago) and it doesn't stand up outside a cold environment like the fridge or my workshop. It's awesome if you keep it in the fridge, but leave it on a counter top and you have soapy goo. Thanks for the suggestion, though. It reminds me that I have to get back to this challenge!

Unknown said...

Hi I am new here. Is there any update on this challenge? I am going to order some carageenan, but wondering if anyone has dup the LUSH scents successfully?

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan,
I did wait 2 months before i posted this recipe.
I thought people actually wanted to make some usable shower jelly to increase their earnings, rather than waste their money guessing when the recipe is public already
Please delete my recipe, so that people can continue to substitute with ingredients that dont work.

I thought this was a site for Proffesional manufacturers.

The Goal is to make Shower Jelly and myself and 100% of the people who view my post will be thinking the same.
Im just glad I didnt waste my time outlining the combination and ruining your opportunity to Comment on everyones work.

Time to set up a website for serious Manufacturers, that actually want to make Safe cosmetics for a living.

Clearly you have a day job.

Dirty Chemist

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Dear Dirty Chemist. You clearly have no idea why I write this blog and what it is about, and I don't have to listen to your insults and put downs. If you don't like the recipes I write, don't use them. If you don't like the idea of people joining together to work on a recipe, then don't visit here. If the only reason you're visiting this blog is to see if people liked your recipe or to call me names, then stop now. People didn't like your recipe and they didn't find it helpful. (You note that you left information out. Why did you wait almost 30 months to visit the blog again? Did you need a self esteem boost or did you feel like trying to drag me down? Either way, you're behaving like a jerk.)

I encourage you to start your own blog, writing posts every single day that are well written with no spelling or grammatical mistakes. I encourage you to respond to every e-mail sent to you and every comment written on the blog. Do that for over three years and then you can make comments like the ones you have in this post. If you write as well as you have done here, I fear your blog may not be as successful as you wish. Please let me know when it's done and I shall link it here in bright bold colours!

I won't remove your comments and I won't allow you to either because I want people to see your arrogance and rudeness. You're a bully, plain and simple...and we don't like bullies around here. I look forward to you not visiting again. In the future, your comments will be moderated. You are not welcome here.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

For posterity, here is what Dirty Chemist wrote...

Hi There
Here is the recipe Lush uses.
Much easier that the guess work on this site
35% Water
30% Surfactant
25% Glycerine
7% Mono Glycol
1.5% Seaweed extract
1.3% Fragrance
.2% Preservative

Your welcome to contact me if you need help with the combination.

The Seaweed extract is Carageenan extract kappa

February 19, 2010 11:17 PM

And again...

Anonymous said...
Hi Susan,
I did wait 2 months before i posted this recipe.
I thought people actually wanted to make some usable shower jelly to increase their earnings, rather than waste their money guessing when the recipe is public already
Please delete my recipe, so that people can continue to substitute with ingredients that dont work.

I thought this was a site for Proffesional manufacturers.

The Goal is to make Shower Jelly and myself and 100% of the people who view my post will be thinking the same.
Im just glad I didnt waste my time outlining the combination and ruining your opportunity to Comment on everyones work.

Time to set up a website for serious Manufacturers, that actually want to make Safe cosmetics for a living.

Clearly you have a day job.

Dirty Chemist

August 31, 2012 11:12 AM

Dirty said...

I have allready emailed to ask you to remove Dirty Chemists link to me please, perhaps you havent recieved it.
I only came on here to share a recipe, and I dont like being linked to the Jerk who used my post.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Dirty said...I have allready emailed to ask you to remove Dirty Chemists link to me please, perhaps you havent recieved it. I only came on here to share a recipe, and I dont like being linked to the Jerk who used my post.

I'm confused. Who are you? What do you want me to remove? Who are you calling a jerk? Who is using your post? I'm afraid I really don't understand what you are saying. Are you the original poster who shared the recipe? Or the person who wrote a few days ago? Please write more clearly so I can understand what you are requesting and who you are. Your writing is very hard to follow and I really don't have the energy to do any more deciphering tonight.

I don't remove comments around here. There is pretty much no reason I can think of to remove any posts you might have written - my blog, my rules. You write it, you own it. Are you embarrassed by how rude you are or how poorly you write? Whatever the reason, I'm leaving your comment intact. Think about what you plan to write next time.

If you write back, please proofread your comments so they are more understandable. I'm not trying to be mean, but I really can't understand what you are writing, and as the person with whom you are communicating, it's up to you to make sure you are comprehensible.

Dirty said...

I emailed to disassociate my post (Dirty)
with the person called Dirty Chemist.

I only wanted to Share a recipe and hoped to make some new friends.

I used to really enjoy your blog.

The Jerk I was refering to was Dirty Chemist

For the record, I was bullied at school for being Dyslexic and my grammar has allways suffered,
thanks for sending me back to the schoolyard and reducing me to tears

I have unsubscribed to your blog.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

So you're the person who visited my blog and posted the recipe with the comment, "Much easier that the guess work on this site" with the recipe above? And you aren't the person who visited a few days ago? Please clarify this.

Read what you wrote again and think about it for a moment. How is it okay to speak to me like that then try to make me feel bad for defending myself. I'm sorry you were bullied for having dyslexia, but do not try to make it seem like I bullied you by asking you to be more clear and by telling you that you've been rude.

You know, I have to put up with really mean comments and e-mails all the time. I spend what seems like hours trying to decipher e-mails with horrible spelling, horrible grammar, and horrible writing. I'm really done with it. I'm tired of having to be nice to people when they're not nice to me. Regardless of whether you were the first poster or the second poster, you were still rude. I think you need to own up to that before you can flounce off feeling like I was cruel to you.

I'm done with this conversation. I have spent too much time on it. If you want to speak privately, you know my e-mail.

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan

I know this is a reeeeeally old post now and the challenge is well and truly over...but I found this just today on making lush-like shower jellies by curious soapmaker and thought I'd share the link:

http://curious-soapmaker.com/how-to-make-lush-like-shower-jelly.html

It has some interesting info, particularly on the patent notes regarding the interesting effects of propylene glycol mixed with glycerine in the formula.

For those in Aus who might be wondering, New Directions Australia sells Carrageenan.

Cheers
Gabrielle

Stacey Dee said...

I'm super late to this party but I thought I might direct you guys to a recipe that has been tried and tested and found to be successful :)

Tried the carrageenan version
http://curious-soapmaker.com/how-to-make-lush-like-shower-jelly.html

hard to source some of the ingredients but it's the only recipe that holds up at room temp that I've found.
Enjoy!