Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Heat protecting hair care products - Analysing Nexxus Heat Protexx Heat Protection Styling Spray

This is a change from the last two products in that the Nexxus (etc.) is water based! Let's take a look at the ingredient list. (Be warned, it's huge!)

Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Amodimethicone, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, PEG 12 Dimethicone, PVP, Fragrance (Parfum), Polysorbate 20, Cetylpyridinium Chloride, DMDM Hydantoin, Trideceth 12, Cetrimonium Chloride, Benzophenone 4, Triethanolamine, Hexylcinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Silk, Limonene, Linalool, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene, Carboxaldehyde, Polyglyceryl 3 Distearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Ascorbic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Myristic Acid, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Triticum Vulgare Flour Lipids (Wheat), Persea Gratissima Oil (Avocado), Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glycine Soja Sterols (Soybean), Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide, Ceramide 3, Ethylehexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Niacinamide, Biotin

Water: Okay, that's obvious, right?

Amodimethicone: We met this ingredient in the John Frieda product. This is an amino functionalized silicone that is water soluble in products, but not water soluble in hair. It is an inorganic cationic polymer. (Our normal cationic polymers like honeyquat and polyquat 7 are organic polymers.) They behave like this polyquats in that they are attracted to the negative charge on the hair, but they offer higher shine for your hair. They also seal in moisture better than polyquats, and offer better wet and dry combing. It offers such properties as deep conditioning, increased colour retention, protection from thermal damage, and increased gloss and shine.

Glycerin: This is a humectant.

Propylene glycol: Another humectant.

PEG 12 dimethicone: This is a water soluble dimethicone.

PVP: A film former and styling agent.

Fragrance (parfum): I'm surprised to see this so high in the list!

Polysorbate 20: A high HLB emulsifier generally used for fragrance oils.

Cetylpyridinium Chloride: A cationic quaternary compound added to products as an anti-septic.

DMDM hydantoin: A preservative sold under the name Glydant.

Trideceth 12: An ethoxylated emulsifier used to emulsify amodimethicone.

Cetrimonium Chloride: We all know how much I love this stuff! A water soluble, cationic quaternary compound that offers good detangling to conditioning products. It can also be anti-septic.

Benzophenone 4: A sun screen ingredient.

Triethanolamine: An emulsifier and pH balancer, as well as a chelator when used with EDTA. (Which we find later on down the ingredient list as disodium EDTA). Chelators bind metal ions in our products to prevent oxidation and microbial infection.

Hydrolyzed Silk: Added as a film former and moisture retainer.

Polyglyceryl 3 Distearate: Natramulse from the Herbarie with an HLB of 12. It is an emulsifier that can be used at up to 3% in lotions and conditioners. It is supposed to have a conditioned afterfeel.

Hexylcinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Limonene, Linalool, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene, Carboxaldehyde: These are all fragrance elements.

Tocopheryl Acetate: Vitamin E.
Panthenol: It builds a thin moisture film on the surface of your hair (film former) and makes it shine without oil or greasiness. In addition, it can penetrate the cuticle of your hair and brings moisture to the cortex! This means you get good manageability and pliability of your hair, and it is better able to cope with brushing, wind, and other non-hair friendly things. Finally, it could give your hair more body!

Ascorbic Acid: Vitamin C. An anti-oxidant.

Polysorbate 60: A high HLB emulsifier.

Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Myristic Acid: These are fatty acids used for emolliency, thickening, and co-emulsification.

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride: Also known as cationic guar. It is a cationic polymer that offers conditioning and thickening to the product. It works with surfactants well. Used at 0.2% to 1.0%.

Triticum Vulgare Flour Lipids (Wheat): This is likely wheat germ oil, although it could be wheat germ oil wax as a viscosity increaser.

Persea Gratissima Oil (Avocado): Avocado oil.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: An oil soluble Vitamin C ester. Acts an anti-oxidant and may mitigate UV damage.

Glycine Soja Sterols (Soybean): Soybean oil.

Alpha Glucan Oligosaccharide: An emollient with water binding properties - a humectant.

Ceramide 3: A lipid that increases water binding in the skin and improves skin's barrier functions. It may penetrate hair strands. It is a humectant.

Ethylehexyl Methoxycinnamate: A sun screen ingredient.

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane: Another sunscreen ingredient known as Parsol 1789 or Avobenzone.

Niacinamide: Vitamin B3 or niacin. Prevents UV related damage, regulates sebum, helps with water retention and hydration.

Biotin: Vitamin B8. Offers increased cell regeneration and skin barrier repair. Its efficacy is boosted by Vitamin C. Studies have shown benefits using biotin in nail and hair care. It might prevent hair loss, and improves the quality of both hair and nails.

So what we have in this product is dimethicone, a ton of humectants (glycerin, propylene glycol, alpha glucan, ceramide 3), some cationic compounds (cetrimonium chloride and guar), some moisturizers (the fatty acids), hydrolyzed silk, some oils, UV protectors, and some vitamin-y goodness.

This differs from the other products we've analyzed in that it's a water based product, which means it needs to have emulsifiers, which we find in the form of polysorbate 20, polysorbate 80, and polyglyceryl 3 distearate, and some co-emulsifiers in the stearic, myristic, and palmitic acids. It also needs preservatives, anti-oxidants, and chelators, which we find in the preservatives, Vitamin E, disodium EDTA, and TEA.

Could we make a product like this? I think we could quite easily. You'd need some water soluble dimethicone (we find this at the Herbarie as raspberry dimethicone WS), some cationic guar and cetrimonium chloride, some humectants - glycerin, propylene glycol, or something like honeyquat that would be both a cationic polymer and a humectant - and a few water soluble oils or oils mixed with polysorbate 20 or 80.

Having said this, I think you could do a nice job with a leave in conditioner with cetrimonium chloride as your primary conditioning ingredient, some water soluble dimethicone, and some water soluble oils. I made up a very light detangling spray for my best friend with 3% cetrimonium chloride, 2% hydrolyzed oat protein, 2% panthenol, 3% PEG-7 olive oil esters, 1% fragrance, and 0.5% preservative. You could add up to 4% (max) water soluble dimethicone and you'd have a a nice detangling spray that would offer some heat protection from the silicone.

Or make up a leave in conditioner with BTMS as the emulsifier and conditioner and add panthenol, hydrolyzed protein, regular dimethicone, cetrimonium chloride, and oils. Hey, where have I seen that before? (Just make up this recipe with more dimethicone - say 10% or so - and leave out the cyclomethicone). Add a bit of Vitamin E and other vitamins and you might have yourself a very nice conditioning spray.

This isn't to say these suggestions will work as heat protecting sprays as I haven't been able to test it out. These are just ideas of how I would duplicate this product.

Join me tomorrow for another analysis of heat protecting hair care products with ghd Thermal Protector.

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