Ingredients: Water, SD Alcohol 40-B, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Propylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Aminomethyl Propanol, AMP-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Benzophenone-4, Butylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Meadowfoamamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride, Panthenol, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Sodium Hydroxide, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Fragrance.
Wednesday, December 30, 2009
Heat protecting hair care products - ghd Thermal Protector
Let's take a look at another heat protecting hair care product - ghd Thermal Protector. Like the Nexxus product yesterday, this is a water based product.
SD-Alcohol 40-B: This is a specially denatured alcohol with the designation by the U.S. ATF 40-B to indicate it has been denatured by denatonium benzoate, the bitterest substance in existence.
Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate: Made by National Starch and called Flexan 130, it is an anionic polymer that removes cationic build up in hair. It's normally put into shampoo, so I'm not sure why it's in this product!
Propylene Glycol: A humectant.
Polysorbate 20: A high HLB emulsifier.
Aminomethyl Propanol: An alkanolamine used to neutralize pH in cosmetic products. Usage rate up to 7%.
AMP-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer: I just received some of this!
From the Personal Formulator...It controls the water solubility of the resin film in hair sprays, and makes the finished film more resistant to humidity. It forms a gel with long chain acrylic polymers...This is found in a lot of styling products because of the resistance to humidity.
Benzophenone-4: Sunscreen ingredient.
Butylene Glycol: A humectant
Citric Acid: Probably used as a pH adjuster in this recipe.
Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: I found this data bulletin for the product sold as Vegequat (if you're interested, click here). It's a cationic quaternary polymer like condition-eze 7 or honeyquat derived from coconut fatty acids and hydrolyzed wheat proteins. It provides anti-static, conditioning, and hydrating properties to skin and hair care products. Use at 1 to 5%.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract: Sunflower oil extract. Probably water soluble.
Meadowfoamamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride: Sold under the name Meadowquat GL, it is a "mild quat that attaches humectant moiety directly to hair and skin to provide sustained moisturization". In other words, it is a cationic quaternary polymer that attaches to your hair and moisturizes it.
Panthenol: It builds a thin moisture film on the surface of your hair (film former) and makes it shine without oil or greasiness. In addition, it can penetrate the cuticle of your hair and brings moisture to the cortex! This means you get good manageability and pliability of your hair, and it is better able to cope with brushing, wind, and other non-hair friendly things. Finally, it could give your hair more body!
PEG-12 Dimethicone: A water soluble dimethicone.
Sodium Hydroxide: pH adjuster and thickening for the gel.
Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben: Preservative. Looks like Germaben.
The main ingredients in this product are conditioners (sodium polystyrene, vegequat, sunflower seed extract, and the meadowfoam thingie), humectants (propylene glycol and butylene glycol), styling and film forming (AMP and panthenol), and pH adjusters (aminomethyl propanol, citric acid, and sodium hydroxide). We also see some PEG-12 dimethicone (way down the list), preservatives, emulsifier (polysorbate 20), and sunscreen in small amounts.
This is a very different product compared to the last three in that the focus of this product is not the silicone but the conditioning agents and styling properties. It is water based and it seems like all the ingredients - save the fragrance oil - are water based as well. It uses some interesting conditioning agents - I've never seen sodium polystyrene used in this way, and I had to research the other three - but I couldn't tell you if this product is more or less conditioning than another product.
Could you make this? Most certainly! Gather up your light conditioning agents - honeyquat, polyquat-7, cetrimonium chloride - and your usual conditioning ingredients - water, preservative, panthenol, fragrance, propylene glycol or glycerin - and make a leave in conditioner. As for the styling parts, if you want to add the alcohol and AMP to make a more humidity resistant product, that's great. Oh, don't forget the water soluble dimethicone and you're set.