Saturday, December 5, 2009

Formulating with sea buckthorn oil

Isn't palmitoleic acid pretty?

Sea buckthorn oil is a fantastic addition to just about any product you create, but at low levels because is such an expensive oil.

Facial serums (shouldn't that be sera?) for dry or oily skin, and facial moisturizers are great places to use sea buckthorn oil. If you're looking for an oil that offers soothing to itchy, inflamed skin or want to improve the barrier function - especially in severe weather - then sea buckthorn is a great addition!

20% squalane
20% soybean oil
20% camellia oil
10% evening primrose oil (20% for very dry skin, reduce the squalane by 10%)
10% borage oil
10% sea buckthorn oil
10% rosehip, carrot, or other oil that looks nice to you

25% squalane
15% sesame oil (was originally 25%)
10% sea buckthorn oil (added)
20% borage oil
10% calendula oil
20% pomegranate oil

FACIAL MOISTURIZER (click here for instructions and reasons for using each ingredient)

WATER PHASE - you can use 80% water if you don't have the hydrosols and aloe vera
48% water
15% aloe vera
15% hydrosol of choice (I'm using lavender hydrosol)
2% humectant of choice (I'm using sodium lactate)
2% hydrolyzed protein of choice

8% oils - Include up to 5% sea buckthorn oil and a carrier oil of choice.
4% emulsifier - Polawax, e-wax or BTMS
2% thickener - cetyl alcohol for the glide

0.5% to 1% preservative
2% panthenol
0.5% chamomile extract (for soothing)
0.5% honeysuckle extract (for acne)
Note: use any powdered extracts you like, but make sure you aren't combining exfoliating ones at higher than 0.5% total!

But don't just use sea buckthorn oil in facial products! Consider it for an after bath spray at 10% - think of it as a body serum! Or in a lotion bar at 10%!

To summarize, consider using sea buckthorn at up to 10% in various lotions, moisturizers, and anhydrous products!


p said...

Quick question - my seabuckthorn (berry) oil is super intensely orange - I'm wondering whether it'll stain pale skin if I use it at 10% in a serum? You seem to be a pale one, I'm guessing you know! ;)

I was also wondering, how do you package your serums? I'd been using an amber glass bottle (to protect from light) with a glass dropper with a rubber bulb, and my serum turned the rubber to mush! I'm thinking a glass bottle with a "treatment pump" like this might work, but I'm worried it'll pump out more than the few drops needed for each application. What do you use?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi p. I'm not sure if it will stain your skin - I don't use my serum every single day (oily skin and all that). I know carrot tissue oil can stain your skin if used at high levels over a period of time, so it might be wise to test it on a part of your body that you don't mind being orangey before you decide to use it every day!

I package my serums with a little treatment pump similar to the one in the link. I like the little blue bottles, but you could use amber. Voyageur has green now - I'm kinda partial to those, too. You can also use a disc cap and just squish a little out.

p said...

Thanks, Susan! I was thinking of staining immediately after application - more permanent staining hadn't even occurred to me! Good to know it's something to think about. Looking forward to getting some treatment pumps!

Veronique said...

Hi Susan. Wow you use this product at 10%! I made a moisturizer and i used it at 2% and it turns my skin yellow. I love it but can't seem to use it on my skin, i'm too pale! Any suggestions?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Veronique. As I mention to p in the comments above, if your sea buckthorn oil is really orange, it might stain your skin, so don't use it. My sea buckthorn oil is an orange-y colour, but it's been fine in my products. I have a whipped butter I use it in at 10%, and although it's yellow - kinda like butter - my pale skin hasn't had problems. If your sea buckthorn is really orange, then please don't use it in your products at high levels. I'd hate to see you turn orange!

playhookie said...

Might the colour difference be due to whether you've got the berry or seed oil? I think was reading somewhere that the two are different colours and I have the berry oil - which is very bright orange. I made a really lovely super healing balm with this and some tamanu oil (and a bunch of other nice, and cheaper, oils to pad it out a bit) and it definitely does go bright orange (you've been Tangoed kind of colour - hum, that's a reference to a uk advert, hope it translates). My spots have been on the run from this and they are leaving very little scarring! Thrilled - although not quite sure which bit is doing the work...