Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Evolution of a product - final recipes!

It's here! It's here! Petra and I have both found our final recipes...and we unveil them to you!

If you want to see our attempts from the beginning, please click here.

SUSAN'S ATTEMPT #4 and final recipe
40% berry sugar (finer grain than white sugar)
30% baking soda (Arm & Hammer brand)
18% coconut oil
8% SCI
2% cream of tartar
2% fragrance oil - Hello Sweet Thang!

I switched the mango and shea butter for coconut oil. I don't think it's more or less moisturizing than the other version, although it is whiter and would be cheaper to make if one were to market this. Do not use a fragrance oil with vanilla in it - it will discolour very quickly, even overnight.

I think it's a nice bar, very easy to make, would be very easy to mold and make look very pretty (see Petra's pictures below) but I would still like a titch more oils for post-shower moisturization. I'm going to play with this to include some conditioning agents and emulsifiers - I couldn't do that as we wanted to stay with the original ingredients - and see how I like it!

PETRA'S ATTEMPT #4 and final recipe
36.0% sugar
32.0% baking soda
11% cream of tartar
10% virgin coconut oil
1% shea butter
10% SLSa

I remember trying the VCO at 10% and shea at 2% and found that I was getting a "greasy smear" which I attributed to the shea. I left the VCO the same and reduced the shea to 1% and voula! perfect! I also reduced the SLSa a bit I don't remember if it was down to 8% or 10%.

I have decided to offer this strictly "unscented". The natural scent of the coconut is too nice to cover up. I am calling them coconut sugar scrubs and molding them in a heart mold (I think it is an IKEA mold as well). Not sure if this factors into the final product, but one thing I have been doing is unmolding and "drying" them on a terry towel (although I am adding no moisture). It seems more forgiving when I put it out of the mold and seems to suspend the scrub above the surface a bit. My plan is to put "naked" scrubs in a jar and also sell individual scrubs wrapped in a silver foil wrapper and put in an apothecary jar.

(Petra's version is much prettier than mine!)

So what did Petra and I learn on this adventure? I think it's interesting that without even discussing batch #1, we moved closer to using the same ingredients in almost the same amounts, but we still have some differences. We both have surfactants acting more as emulsifiers than as foamers. And we both want lots of moisturizing power from the oils! Petra's is only slightly less scrubby than mine - 70% exfoliants in Swift's vs. 68% in Petra's - and mine is a little more oily. I think Petra's is more likely closer to the product from Lush!

If you've been playing along with this challenge, let me and know and we'll post your recipes and pictures here!


Susan said...

Looks lovey. Can't wait to try it at home. Thank you Susan and Petra.

Anonymous said...

This was realy fun to follow. The final results looks great and i will try this on the we! Thanks

Susan said...

Just a quick question. If someone where to use it as a bar instead of cutting it into chunks, would this also (like solid shampoo and conditioner bar) need a preservative in it as well?


Esmée said...

I will play next time!

And I was just planning to go get Cream of Tartar today!


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Sorry, Esmee! Didn't mean to ruin your fun! Let us know which one you chose and how it turns out!

Susan - I'd add a preservative if it's going to be exposed to water in the shower. You could use Phenonip or another preservative that plays well with solid products!

Anonymous said...

Just now saw this recipe for Sugar Babe, which I had tried to produce on my own, with no good results. How long do these bars take to dry and become firm (ish?) after unmolding? I made this earlier today and they still seem as fragile as when I unmolded them. I have them sitting on the counter on a kitchen towel. Thanks!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Mine were solid when I removed them and they didn't become any harder over time, so I think it's safe to say that they should be pretty solid when you unmould them.

Shirl said...

In Susan's attempt it lists 8% sci. What is sci?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Sodium cocoyl isethionate. Check out the surfactants section of the blog for information on it!

Bonnie / Bonnie in SJ said...

Hello again! It has been quite a treat to read the journey of a product from nascence to finality. In light of the August 2014 "Write A Review" challenge, I thought I'd share my experience.

I made Petra's version, with two changes: using Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), because that's all I had. And there's 1% fragrance oil in it. To get the recipe to 100%, here are the ratios I used:

35% table sugar
32% baking soda
11% cream of tartar
10% coconut oil (76 degree)
10% SLS
1% shea butter
1% fragrance

I mixed together the sugar, baking soda, and cream of tartar, as well as the SLS (mine is in powder form). Then I melted the coconut oil and shea butter in a separate container.

I added the oils to the powder and mixed well, then added the fragrance oil and mixed that well also. The mixture was a little clumpy, but mostly powdery. I popped it into an ice cube tray and set it in the freezer for several hours.

RESULT: The cubes never hardened to a state where I could get them out of the mold. Each one crumbled into a powder when removed and handled. In the end, I just finished crumbling the damaged cubes into a container, and I use a spoon to scoop out the scrub -- which is fairly sand-like, similar to slightly-buttered bread crumbs that one tops casseroles with. As a scrub, I really like how it works, but I'm not sure if that's the texture we were going for.

Possible sources of the problem: Should I have melted the SLS in the container with the oils, instead of mixing the powder with the other powders? I've never had luck melting SLS ... it remains powdery and only ever clumps together just a tiny bit (not enough to be considered "melted")

Or perhaps using SLS instead of SLSa was altogether the culprit?

- Bonnie / Bonnie in SJ (now with Google account goodness)