Monday, November 16, 2009

Modifying lotion recipes: That powdery feeling!

If you've been reading this blog, you'll know I like my lotions to be a bit oily - I hate that word, but it fits! - with lots of slip and glide. If you're a non-oily lotion kind of person, there are a few things you can try to reduce that feeling and make a powdery type of lotion.

Change your emulsifier - Incroquat BTMS produces a lotion with a drier, powdery feel than those made with Polawax. You can substitute it for emulsifying wax at the same amount. Remember, if you're using BTMS as your emulsifier you are creating a cationic lotion, so you can't use Tinosan as your preservative!

Add IPM - Adding IPM at up to 5% will reduce the feeling of greasiness and increase the level of powderiness. You can use this as your primary emollient as well, replacing something light like fractionated coconut oil with IPM. You'll have quite the dry feeling lotion then!

Use esters instead of oils - If you choose cetyl or alkyl esters, you'll find your lotion feels much lighter and slightly drier than if you'd used something like sunflower or olive oil.

Change your oils - Oils like hazelnut (light) and avocado (medium) can be used in place of pretty much any other oils in your recipes. And for your butters, consider using avocado or mango butter - both are considered astringent butters and will give you that feeling of dryness.

Add a little silicone - Cyclomethicone is a volatile silicone, meaning it evaporates quickly from your skin. It will stick around long enough to give you some slip and glide, but eventually it is gone, leaving a silky, powdery feeling on your skin.

Change your water phase - Aloe vera, witch hazel, and astringent hydrosols will make your lotion feel drier than using plain old water in a recipe.

So let's modify an oily feeling recipe into a powdery feeling recipe!

BASIC LOTION RECIPE (original post found here...)
70% water
15% oil (sunflower, soy bean, rice bran, or olive oil)
5% shea or mango butter
3% cetyl alcohol
5% emulsifier (BTMS or Polawax)
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative
(This doesn't total 100% because of the difference in preservatives!)

To make this more powdery, I would modify it thusly...

70% water - or you could do 35% water, 35% hydrosol (lavender and orange are good choices here)
15% oils - hazelnut (7%) and avocado (8%)
5% mango or avocado butter
3% cetyl alcohol
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative

This will give you a medium weight lotion with a powdery after feel. But where are the humectants and proteins and everything else we love in a lotion? After all, winter is fast approaching!!!

20% water
38% hydrosols or aloe vera
2% hydrolyzed protein (added because it's awesome!)
2% sodium lactate (won't make it feel drier, just thought we needed some humectants)
3% glycerin (again, we need humectants going into winter!)

15% oil - hazelnut (7%) and avocado (8%)
5% mango or avocado butter
3% cetyl alcohol
3% IPM

2% cyclomethicone
1% fragrance or essential oil
0.5% to 1% preservative

This is going to make your lotion feel very dry and powdery. If you like that kind of after feel, then try it out and see how you like it. If you want it even drier, you can substitute the oils for alkyl or cetyl esters!

Have fun playing!


Nancy said...

Hi Susan!

Just love the new lotion recipe you just posted with the powdery feeling. I am making this one for sure. I will lry you know how I like it. Debating whether I am going to make it was alykl ester or not.


Row said...

Hi Swift: Great posts on butters. Just curious about your opinion on tempering them. Years ago I made a cream that granulized and it went in the garbage(I hate that).It was cocoa butter. Since I've read about tempering I have have done so but I'd like to know what causes it to turn into granules. Is it old inventory, low quality, or maybe a chemical reaction. If you've posted and i missed it please re-direct me. Thanks Row

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Row...The granules are called crystals and they come from cooling the butter too slowly! From the post on cocoa butter:

Cocoa butter has a general melting point of about 38C (or 100F) and specific melting points at 17C, 23C, 26C, and 35 to 37C. Cooling it quickly means there's little chance for crystals to form as we pass through the different melting points.

Doo said...

This lotion is very greasy. It took me forever to get it off my skin. The sunflower oil takes a long time to absorb. It did not feel "powdery" at all.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

What is the exact formula you followed with the actual ingredients you used? What emulsifier? What butter? I'd love to see what you made do we can troubleshoot it.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Just realized something - you do realize the sunflower oil lotion is the non-powdery version, right?