Friday, November 13, 2009

Mango butter!

Isn't this mangiferin molecule beautiful?

Mango butter (from the seed) is composed of 6% palmitic acid (C16), 42% stearic acid (C18), 46% oleic acid (C18:1), and 3% linoleic acid (C18:2). It contains Vitamins A, B, and C.

We know oleic acid offers great moisturizing and softening of our skin by being well absorbed by the skin. It offers anti-inflammatory benefits as well. And stearic acid is another fatty acid that is well absorbed by the skin to increase moisture retention and flexibility of our skin. So in mango butter we find a lovely butter that melts a little above our body temperature that offers moisturizing and occlusion to our products.

Mango butter contains some great polyphenols! Quercetin and caffeic acid are good anti-oxidants. Mangiferin, a xanthone, is a very powerful anti-oxidant with anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, and anti-inflammatory benefits.

The tannins in mango butter offer some fantastic qualities to any product! Although they make the butter astringent, they offer anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, and anti-bacterial benefits. Gallic acid has been studied as a burn and wound healer that may prevent infection during the healing process. Caffeic acid is being studied as a strong anti-viral for herpes and HIV (obviously we aren't using in this capacity as a cosmetic!)

Mango butter has a shelf life of up to three years (although I'd call it two!). Because of its astringent qualities, it is a butter best suited for normal to oily skin and hair. It isn't necessarily the best butter to use as the only ingredient in something like a lotion bar - it can feel very dry to some people. The amount you want to use is really up to you based on skin feel and desired characteristics of your product. It has a melting point of 34˚C to 38˚C (86 - 98.6˚F). 

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating with mango butter!

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