Monday, November 9, 2009

Hazelnut oil

Hazelnut oil is another high oleic acid (66 to 85%) oil containing a little linoleic acid (up to 25%), a little palmitic acid (4 to 9%), and a little stearic acid (1 to 4%). It's high in phytosterols - 1.2 to 1.4 grams per kg of oil - and Vitamin E (between 382 to 472 per 100 grams of oil) in the form of alpha tocopherol (about 88%). In fact, hazelnut oil is only second to sunflower oil in its Vitamin E content. Because of all this wonderful Vitamin E, hazelnut oil is slow to go rancid, despite all those double bonds in the oleic and linoleic acid, and can keep up to 1 year in a cool, dark place. (And it may act as a mild sunscreen, but don't go making claims about that!)

Hazelnut oil contains about 20 to 50 mg squalene per 100 grams of oil , and 110 to 140 mg phytosterols per 100 grams of oil. It contains quite a few minerals like potassium, calcium, and magnesium.

Hazelnut oil is filled with wonderful polyphenols and has one of the highest flavonoid concentrations in any of our carrier oils. This is one of the reasons it's considered a dry or astringent oil - the concentration of catechins and tannins make it feel dry on our skin.

Hazelnut oil is a great emollient: Due to the high Vitamin E content, hazelnut oil is absorbed quickly by the skin, offering softening and moisturizing. It can offer some mild UV protection and cell regenerative properties.

Because it feels so dry on our skin and because its one of the more expensive carrier oils, usage of about 10% of your recipe will get you the benefits of hazelnut oil without breaking the bank!

Consider using hazelnut oil in your facial moisturizer or serum. It will offer all those great moisturizing qualities, lots of Vitamin E, and it won't feel greasy on your skin. (Although, if you're someone with acne, you might want to avoid it because of the high oleic and low linoleic fatty acid levels).

Hazelnut oil is a great addition to a lotion bar to cut down on the greasy feeling. Try it in the lotion bar recipe below - the IPM will reduce greasiness as will hazelnut oil - or choose your own oils and add 10% hazelnut oil to see how it feels.

MY FAVOURITE LOTION BAR RECIPE, modified to include hazelnut oil
28% beeswax
10% sesame oil (nice balance of oleic and linoleic acids)
18% rice bran oil (another nice balance of linoleic and oleic acids)
10% hazelnut oil
30% mango butter
2% IPM
2% cyclomethicone
2% vitamin E
1% FO

Melt all but the cyclomethicone and fragrance oil in a heat proof container in your double boiler. When all the ingredients have melted, add the cyclomethicone and fragrance oil, then pour into a mold or twist up deodorant container. Let set. Use!

Join me tomorrow for fun with shea butter!


Jacki said...

OK, I'm confused! I usually see hazelnut oil as recommended for acne prone skin! Now I'm all turned around and upsidedown... what oils should I use?

Wachovia Online Banking said...

I have never used Hazel oil, but your article says it is very useful oil. Rich in vitamin E, which means hazel nut oil, is great for skin. I would love to try this oil.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I think part of the reason hazelnut oil is suggested for acne prone skin is because it has a lot of tannins, which makes it an astringent oil, a ton of Vitamin E, and squalene. But I think the problem is the definition of "acne". I consider myself acne prone, but I'm not. I have breakouts and my skin gets easily irritated, but I don't have pustules and scarring and I don't have the bacteria that causes acne, so by definition I'm not really acne prone. But it's an easy way of describing my skin type.

If your skin is prone to breakouts, then it is a good oil choice. If you have full blown acne diagnosed by a doctor, then I wouldn't use anything except those things recommended by a physician.

Jacki said...

I feel like the more I know, the more I realize I know nothing. I think I'm going to reformulate with sunflower, borage, evening primrose oil and some neem (bring on the stink!) for my serum. Can't hurt.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Borage and evening primrose are excellent sources of gamma linolenic acids - more on this to come - and good for problematic skin (like mine!) I have found these are great choices for me in a moisturizer.

I love doing all this research - I find out so many things I would have never known! But it does make it really hard to choose oils. Every one of them has some kind of amazing benefit for skin or hair!

Jamie Jackson said...

I want to use Hazelnut oil in one of my creams and am trying to calculate how much emulsifier to use using the HLB chart. I have search online all morning and can't find the required HLB for Hazelnut oil. I've sent emails to Hazelnut oil carriers but no reply yet. Do you happen to know the required HLB for this oil?

Camirra Williamson said...

You say hazelnut oil has a shelf life of about a year, but brambleberry says that is is only 3 months... im confused... thats a huge difference in shelf life. Which is correct?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Camirra. I don't know what to say. I know the research I did into hazelnut oil with many textbooks and papers indicated the shelf life is a year. There's nothing in there that shouldn't let it last a year. Anecdotally, I use this oil a lot and have never noticed the shelf life was less than a year. I wouldn't buy it if it didn't have a year long shelf life.

I don't know what research Brambleberry has done, so I can't really comment.

Camirra Williamson said...

thanks for commenting bacK! I was thinking the same thing, i wouldnt want to buy it either because if it has a short life. okay i think i may chance it and see if it last a year, its not too expensive to take that "risk".