Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Formulating with shea butter - whipped shea butter

I do love shea butter in most of my creations, primarily because it offers great softening and moisturizing qualities and adds slip and glide to pretty much anything!

I love shea butter in a whipped body butter. I have tried making whipped butters with with mango - nice, but a little dry - and cocoa butter - very hard in the container - but I find I have the greatest success with shea butter. The recipe is simple enough, but you can play with the oils to find the perfect combination!

80% shea butter
18% oil of choice
1% fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E (optional - include for oils with shorter shelf lives)

The life span of this butter will depend on the shelf life of your oils.

You can use the shea butter with or without melting. I like to melt it slightly so it will be easier to whip. I use refined shea butter - you can choose your favourite shea butter for this recipe.

Melt the shea butter slightly, then add the oil, fragrance oil, and Vitamin E to the container. Whip until it looks lovely and whipped. You're done!

80% refined shea butter
17% rice bran oil
2% IPM
1% fragrance oil (Cream Cheese Frosting - I told you I was obsessed!)

Directions as above.

If you're on a quest for a winter time whipped butter to help restore barrier function in your skin, then add an oil high in linoleic fatty acids like sunflower, soy bean, or sesame oil. If you need something to reduce inflammation and sink in quickly, then you'll want something with a lot of oleic acid, like rice bran or olive oil, oils that feel heavier than the lighter, high linoleic acid oils. Or choose it by feel. If you want something that isn't too greasy (and the shea butter is going to be greasy), you can use avocado or hazelnut oil, or add up to 2% IPM to reduce the greasy feeling. Any oil combined with shea butter will help reduce transepidermal water loss, so really the oil part is just a bonus for any other qualities you want in a whipped butter.

And if you're going to present this to someone, you could make it very pretty with an icing bag and a 1M tip for a lovely swirl at the top!

Join me for fun formulating with shea butter in hair care products!


madpiano said...

How do you get the whipped butter to stay soft ? I tried 20% almond Oil and 5% Jojoba oil last time and the whipped butter went pretty solid after 2 days. I would like it to be more cream-like, but without adding water.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Whipped butter is going to harden because that's what the shea butter does - hardens at room temperature. You can try adding more oil - try a 70-30 mixture or even 60 - 40 - or try a different oil. I think you'll have to experiment to get a mixture you like the best!

jane said...

Hi Susan

Just a quick question about a preservative here. I want to start working on anhydrous butters tomorrow and I was wondering about the preservative. Are you using the vit-e in here in place of a preservative? I know that it isn't a true preservative so if I am concerned about that could I replace it with phenonip?

Thank you!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Jane. You don't need to include a preservative with an anhydrous (without water) product. (The Vitamin E is included as an anti-oxidant because, as you rightly point out, it isn't a preservative.) If the product might come in contact with water - for instance, if you're turning it into a scrub - then you need a preservative, and Phenonip is a good choice. If there's no water, no water soluble ingredients, and no choice it won't have water introduced, you can make it without preservatives. If you want to include them, Phenonip or another paraben based preservative would be a good choice.

Gabriel said...

I am planning to make a whipped butter with shea and jojoba for use on beards and mens' faces.
I have heard that water is very damaging to facial hair, and I hope that this combination will be good to moisturize the beard hair while protecting it from water a bit.

I know that both shea and jojoba have a good shelf life so I should't need a preservative, and vitamin E is a bad idea for men (increases rates of prostate cancer). My only question is the IPM you added. Since you listed jojoba as a dry emollient, I'm thinking I don't need to add IPM.

Any thoughts on this?

Gabriel said...

Oh yeah, I'm thinking 69/30 with 1% essential oils. I just realized I haven't read all your posts on essential oils though. Anything I need to look out for?
Thank you!