Saturday, November 14, 2009

Formulating with mango butter - solid scrub bars

I love using mango butter in a solid scrub bar in the shower. It melts at body temperature, and it keeps its shape nicely. (For the original post on the solid scrub, click here.) If you have normal to oily skin, feel free to use 20% mango butter - if you have dry skin, consider using 10% mango and 10% shea or other butter (not cocoa as we already have a ton in here!)

Because we already have cocoa butter and another butter - both of which are going to be high in oleic and stearic acids - consider using a high linoleic oil in this recipe, like sesame or sunflower or soy bean oil so you can get those awesome qualities in here as well.

20% mango, shea or other butter
3% cetyl alcohol
4% Incroquat BTMS
2% wax of choice - beeswax, soy wax, etc. For candellia wax, please use 1% as it is very hard.
3% sodium lactate
12% oils - sunflower, rice bran, olive oil at 4% each
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
1% fragrance oil
1% Vitamin E (if you are using oils with less than 6 months' shelf life)

Add up to 100% sugar, salt, or beads. It really is your preference.

For a solid scrub bar for your feet, consider using heavier oils in place of the lighter ones, and consider using pumice as your scrubby part at up to 50%.

Melt everything except the silicones, fragrance oil, and Vitamin E in a heat proof container in a double boiler until all the ingredients are well melted. Remove from the heat and add the silicones, fragrance oil, and Vitamin E. Add your exfoliant and mix well. Then pour into a mold and put in the fridge or freezer until set. Let sit for 24 hours before using.

If you are going to add colours to this, make sure they are oil soluble - water soluble colours are going to sit there in tiny droplets and look really weird.

As an aside, this is an older version of this recipe. I really do suggest adding 1% phenonip preservative to the product to keep it from growing beasties 

Join me tomorrow for fun formulating other things with mango butter!


Birgit said...

I was so exited to try out the recipe for the anhydrous scrub bar, but I might have messed something up... I included 100% sugar into the mixture, but when I added the sugar it simply sank to the bottom of the mixture. Should I have waited for the mixture to cool a bit before adding the sugar?? Did I need to add more sugar so all the liquid is taken up by the sugar? Your bar looks so nice and now I'm afraid mine is just a mess. :( Any suggestions???
Also I find some of the ingredients take forever to melt. It's not like lotion or cream. It's my first time playing with things like BMTS and the like. Is that your experience also??
Thanks and keep up the great work!!!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Birgit. How large is the mold you are using? I know, seems like a weird question, but I tend to use very small molds (holding about 60 grams or so) and I so there isn't much room for the sugar to sink!

Sugar can dissolve if the mixture is too hot, so you can wait for it to cool down a bit before adding it or you can supersaturate the mixture by adding more and more and more until it won't dissolve any more (add enough that it becomes a gloppy mess that you have to scoop to put it into a mold). Or you can use salt - although I will warn you that it can sting on wounds or post-shaving skin.

Yep, something like BTMS can take a while to melt and they need to be fully melted, unlike most of our oils (if you're making lotions, e-wax can take some time as well!).

Birgit said...

Thanks for getting back so fast. I was using a large muffin tin and filled it about half with the mixture. (I know muffin tin may not be the best choice, but that's all I had handy at the time :) When I poured the mixture the sugar automatically went to the bottom and I still had liquid on top. Maybe I just need to add more sugar.
Thanks for talking me down from the limb on the melting point of the BMTS etc. I'm not a gal of patience, so I have to adjust to that.
On the bright side, I tried the bar today (after letting it sit dutifully for the recommended 24 hours - patience, patience...). It was so worth the wait. I scented with Lavender EO and this Incredible Vanilla resin I found (can't think now where I found that at). I have scrubbed from head to toe and I feel like a babe... and that's no small feat. I think I'm in love.... Thanks for another great post.

Terrible Tom said...

I love this recipe. I make mine with ground walnuts ground vanilla beans and ground oatmeal. Then add some banana and hazelnut FO.

Terrible Tom said...

Haha and that's a pic of my hubby not me I need to figure out how to switch the google account! My name is Cora not Terrible Tom.

sísí said...

why no preservation ??

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Sisi. You can use 1% phenonip in this recipe if you wish, but I tend to make them small enough that they only last through two, maybe three, showers. It's an anhydrous product, but even those that come into contact with water should have something, eh? I think I should amend this recipe to include the 1% phenonip, though. Thanks for reminding me to do this.