Monday, November 30, 2009

Coconut oil in hair products!

Coconut oil is a great moisturizer for skin and hair, but especially for hair! This study showed that coconut oil reduces lost proteins for both damaged and undamaged hair when used pre-wash or in a post-wash grooming product. The fatty acid lauric acid has a high affinity for hair proteins, and because of its low molecular weight and linear chain structure it can actually penetrate the hair shaft! Try using it in a pre-wash treatment - melt and rub onto your hair (avoid the scalp), then wash. Or try using it in an intense conditioner, like this one, as the primary oil, or even a regular conditioner as your primary oil. You can use it in a conditioner bar as your oil, but will be a tad softer - but not too much! - than using a butter.

You can use coconut oil in a leave in conditioner - let's take a look at it! (If you want to see the original post, please click here.) This is going to be a little thicker than our usual leave in conditioner, so you might want to consider putting this in a pump or a disc top bottle for easier use.

3% Incroquat BTMS (increased to emulsify our oils better)
2% coconut oil

78% water
2% condition-eze 7 or celquat H-100 or honeyquat (cationic polymer)
2% cetrimonium chloride (for detangling)
4% glycerin (humectant, makes the mixture thicker, which is nice)
1% aloe vera (I don't know if this little makes a difference, but I use it anyway)
1% hydrolyzed protein (I use cromoist)

1% panthenol
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone
1% fragrance oil
.5% to 1% preservative (I use liquid germall plus)

Weigh out then heat your water phase - water, glycerin, aloe vera, hydrolyzed protein, and cationic polymer - in a heat proof container or double boiler. Weigh out and weigh your oil phase - Incroquat BTMS and coconut oil - in a heat proof container or double boiler. Let both phases come to 70C and heat and hold for 20 minutes.

Remove from the heat, then mix together. Stir, then let sit until the mixture comes to 45C. Add the cool down phase. I would leave this to cool completely before bottling so you can see what kind of container you will need!

Join me tomorrow for modifying your products for winter and Wednesday for fun with fractionated coconut oil!


Susan said...

Wow! Thanks Susan for such a great article. I am looking forward to making this. The only ingredient that I do not have is cetrimonium chloride. I have tried to search for this in Canada and could not find it. Could you please tell me where I can purchase this?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

The only place I know in North America that carries cetrimonium chloride is The Personal Formulator. You can leave it out if you don't have it or substitute 2% or 3% Incroquat CR. It's not as detangling, but it will offer softening and anti-static qualities to the conditioner.

I think the problem in getting this elsewhere is the high minimum order required by the manufacturer as I have talked to some of my suppliers and they can't afford to get it into their shops. If you do order it, you'll only need 4 ounces (120 ml) or so. This lasts me about 6 months and I make a ton of conditioners in my classes and for friends and family!

Susan said...

Thanks Susan,

I didn't know that you did classes. I would love to sign up for one in the future. There is so much to learn, I just finished reading all your blogs on the ingredients today. Thanks for doing such a great job, almost feels like high school chem class again:)

Ella said...
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Ella said...

This one is another one of my favourites! The first time i tried to make it, i was missing almost half of the ingredients-and it was still great:)So this last few times, recipe was preety much the same as Yours, Susan. Oil phase was the same, in water phase i used honeyquat as cationic polymer-at 2%,i left out cetrimonium chloride (i can`t get any),i decided to use oat proteins and at 2%-and i added that missing % to water (79%). As for cool down phase, i used 2% (not 1)of panthenol, an didn`t use dimethicone (another thing i don`t have), the rest was the same. Proces of making-same as yours and works like a magic ;)
My hair are wavy, frizzy and dry-ish. In the summer time and my hair become very dry, when it gets colder and fogy i look like dandelion clock-awful...but with this life-saver my hair are sleeker and half as much freezy when it is moisty. In the summer, dry ends feel much, much softer and my hair looks so shiny. Overall my hair look and feel better. i give it a 9 (10 when i get some cetrimonium cloride for deangling) =D