Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Cocoa butter in a body butter!

I love cocoa butter in a body butter. It will make the recipe thicker, but it will also offer more occlusion and barrier protection against the elements as winter approaches! If you're an outdoorsy type of person who likes to spend time in the cold and snow, you're going to want something with serious barrier protection while you're out there, and something to make your skin feel lovely when you come in from the cold.

In this recipe, I'm going to crank up the barrier ingredients - allantoin, cocoa butter, and dimethicone - and the emollients. I'm choosing cocoa butter as both an emollient and a barrier ingredient, and I'm adding some high linoleic acid oils to replenish the linoleic acid we lose on our skin in winter months, which can lead to dry, itchy skin (if you use sunflower and soy bean, your recipe will be lighter than choosing sesame or rice bran oil). I'm using aloe vera as part of my water phase because it contains allantoin and other skin soothing ingredients, and I'm using lavender or chamomile hydrosol because both are soothing to skin. I'm using two humectants in this recipe - glycerin at 3% and sodium lactate at 2% - because we need all the moisture we can get in the winter! And I'm adding dimethicone as a barrier ingredient and cyclomethicone to give me some extra slip and glide because this is going to be a bit heavier than if I'd used shea or mango butter. (If you don't want to use silicones, then add another oil or increase the water amount by 4%).

This will be a very thick body butter, so make sure you have some jars on hand for storage. This will not be the kind of lotion you can put into a pump or tottle bottle!

WINTER BODY BUTTER FOR WITH INCREASED BARRIER INGREDIENTS (modified April 14th, 2010, as I messed up the figures for the e-wax!)
27.5% water
10% aloe vera liquid
10% lavender or chamomile hydrosol
2% sodium lactate
3% glycerin
2% hydrolyzed protein
0.5% allantoin

10% rice bran, sesame, soybean or sunflower oils (all high linoleic oils)
15% cocoa butter
8.5% BTMS, Polawax OR Emulsifying wax NF
3% cetyl alcohol
2% IPM

0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend
2% cyclomethicone
2% dimethicone

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Mix well when this is heating to dissolve the allantoin.

2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.

3. When both containers have reached 70C, weigh out your water again (and add more hot water to compensate for any evaporation), then add it to your oil container.

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C.

5. Let cool to 45C, then add your cool down phase ingredients. Mix well with your hand mixer or stick blender, then let cool.

6. When the mixture has cooled to room temperature (a few hours), spoon into a jar and let set before using.

As a quick note, I previously had this listed at 6% Polawax. I've been making this recipe this way without separation for a while now, and I hope you had the same results. I've modified it to be at 25% of the oil phase, which is the correct amount.


Anonymous said...

I want a body butter that's really thick, like...well....butter. Not a cream as some recipes are. Is this recipe like that? Very stiff.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

With a water phase of less than 60% and 15% cocoa butter, this is a much stiffer butter than a shea or mango butter version would be, but it's still a cream because it contains water. If you want something really thick, consider making a a basic whipped shea or mango butter without water. Or you could make a water-in-oil lotion (like cold cream).

Naomi said...

Hi Susan,
I'm still learning about emulsification... why is your ewax % of this formulation 6%? Should it be closer to 7.5% (25% of the oils, cetyl, and IPM)?
I'm would like to branch out and develop my own recipes so I'm interested on the why's.

Thanks so much for your generosity and help!

Naomi said...

whoops, sorry, but I forgot to include the 'cones to the ewax calculation, so should the ewax be closer to 8.5%?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

EEK! Thanks for keeping me on my toes. What's up with this recipe? I didn't increase the e-wax and didn't decrease the water amount. Wow, I must have been sleepy that morning. I'll revise it right now - you're right! 8.5% e-wax is the right amount.

Although, interestingly, I've made this recipe quite a few times over the winter and it's stayed emulsified very nicely! It's on my to-do list for this week to make another batch (this time trying the babassu oil) so I'm glad you caught this!

Naomi said...

I've been analyzing different recipes from suppliers (lotion crafters, voyageur, herbarie, etc) and noticed that for most lotions they use lower % of ewax to oils (however, really thick creams tend to go higher % of ewax). When I formulated those recipes as written, they came out fine and have held up fine also. I've read other opinions that prescribe 20% ewax to oils. I'm sure there are many factors in determining a "rule of thumb" of ewax to oils.

I am really looking forward to your revisit of this recipe with babassu. I have a tiny bottle of it that I haven't tried yet!

Me said...

Hi Susan,
I just made my first emulsified product! A yummy body butter using cocoa butter and scented with Kiwi Kiss (from Voyageur). Smells great, and absorbs nicely. Since my skin is pretty dry this year (ridiculously cold Ontario winter!!!), I prefer this over the whipped butters I was working on.
I was sadly disappointed though, because I didn't get that 'wow' of emulsification. My oil phase stated to thicken up and go opaque before I could even add my water phase. I'm assuming it was because of the cetyl alcohol (3%) high content of cocoa butter (7% with 5% shea). Is this normal? The temp was around 70C when I combined the 2 phases.


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Erin! Could you please post your complete recipe in percentages and the actual process you followed in detail? It's hard to offer help when I don't have all the information.

Me said...

Of course :)
Sorry about that Susan.
Here it is...

Water Phase
62% water
1.5% glycerin
1% panthenol powder
.2% Disodium EDTA
1% colloidal oatmeal

Oil Phase
7% cocoa butter (refined)
5% shea butter (refined)
5% grapeseed oil
3% sweet almond oil
1% IPM
3% cetyl alcohol
3% e wax
4% BTMS-50
2% vitamin

Cool Down Phase
.5% Liquid Germall Plus
.8% fragrance oil

I warmed up the water a bit first and made a paste with the colloidal oatmeal, then slowly added the rest of the water mixing as I went (I used a drink mixer to mix it up further)
Heated and held water and oil phases to 70C (the oil phase actually got hotter)
The oil phase cooled quite quickly so I had to pop it into the microwave to bring it up a bit.
I poured oil into water phase and mixed. It emulsified but the oil phase was just starting to go cloudy again when I poured it it. It was around 64C.

Me said...

Oops, that's 2% vitamin e