Friday, October 2, 2009

More fun with the HLB system - a light lotion recipe

I thought I'd try the light lotion with ceteareth-20 and glycol distearate as the emulsifiers. (I'm using this recipe for my upcoming experiment with Olivem 800, so it made sense to stick with the same recipe!) When made with Polawax or BTMS, this is a very light lotion - almost sprayable - that feels cool on your hand.

For my emulsifiers, I chose ceteareth-20 (HLB 15.2) and glycol distearate (HLB 1.0). I chose these because this is what I have in the house and because it has a lovely skin feel. I'm going to start with 4% emulsifier because I know this will work. In future batches, I can reduce it to 2%, but it's just such a pain working with tiny tiny amounts!

My oil phase is 14% of the recipe. I'm going to divide the percentage of each ingredient by the total oil phase, then multiply it by the required HLB number. When I get all the numbers, I'll total it up to get my required HLB.

4% Fractionated coconut oil - 4/14 = 0.28571429 x 5 = 1.43
4% Olive oil - 4/14 = 0.28571429 x 7 = 2
2% Cetyl alcohol - 2/14 = 0.14285714 x 15.5 = 2.143
2% IPM - 2/14 = 0.14285714 x 11.5 = 1.643
2% cyclo - 2/14 = 0.14285714 x 8 = 1.143

Required HLB for this lotion - 8.359 (8.4)

To reach this number with my emulsifiers, I need to use 2.1% ceteareth-20 and 1.9% glycol distearate, since I'm using 4% emulsifier.

Ceteareth-20 - HLB 15.2 - If I use 52% ceteareth-20 my HLB is 7.9.(0.52 x 4 = 2.1)
Glycol distearate - HLB 1 - If I use 48% glycol distearate my HLB is 0.48 (0.48 x 4 = 1.9)
Total: 8.38, which is almost dead on my required HLB value.

LIGHT LOTION RECIPE WITH HLB SYSTEM EMULSIFIERS
WATER PHASE (you can use 76% water if you don't have the hydrosols!)
56% water
20% lavender hydrosol
2% sodium lactate

OIL PHASE
4% fractionated coconut oil
4% olive oil
2% cetyl alcohol
2% IPM
2.1% ceteareth-20
1.9% glycol distearate

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% cyclomethicone

This lotion felt lovely and glidy, very nice. It sinks in really quickly and I think it would be a good choice for someone looking for a non-greasy lotion that won't stain your clothes! Definitely could be sprayed. When I make this recipe again, I need more humectants in it. Yes, something like glycerin will make this thicker, but I really need my humectants!

Oh, and my new fragrance love is Cream Cheese Frosting from Brambleberry. I love the Wedding Cake from Aquarius, but Monica can't get it any longer, so I think this is my new signature scent! Yum!

Join me tomorrow for more fun with emulsification as we take a look at emulsification systems like Polawax and BTMS.

1 comment:

briallen said...

hese posts - having recently embarked on creams and lotions they're really helpful.