Friday, October 30, 2009

Formulating with soy bean oil

You can use soy bean oil anywhere you'd use a light weight oil - in a lotion, lotion bar, hair care product - but I really like to use it in scrubs. The high levels of Vitamin E make it great in a softening lotion, and I'm always looking for anti-inflammatory oils to help with my annoyingly red skin! (It's a great oil for the beard conditioner with a longer shelf life than sunflower oil!)

Try using soy bean oil in a solid body scrub or a solid foot scrub (although I admit I like a heavier oil in my foot scrub bars, soy bean is a great choice here!) Or try it in an oil based scrub in combination with a heavier oil like olive oil, which contains a natural humectant (which you know I love!) Or mix it with equal parts polysorbate 80 and make yourself a foaming facial cleanser with soy bean oil - it'll have Vitamin D, Vitamin E, and anti-inflammatory effects on your skin!

I'm a big fan of the emulsified sugar scrub - it's like an oil based one, only we put emulsifiers in it so when you rinse it off, it turns into lotion. If you've never used one, I say try it! A light oil filled with linoleic acid like soy bean oil is a great choice for an emulsified scrub. You don't want something that feels really heavy when you rinse it off, and you want something inexpensive because we'll be using a ton of oils in it!

Why are we adding a preservative like Phenonip to this scrub? Although it's anhydrous - meaning it doesn't contain water - anyone using it is going to be adding water to it in the form of wet hands during a shower or bath. (Which is why we always consider the end use of the product when formulating!) I'll be using it at the maximum suggested usage of 1%.

Finally, there are many interesting ingredients you can use in a scrub. Different exfoliants are going to offer different benefits - salt, sugar, loofah, those little jojoba beads, clay beads, finely ground pumice, and so on - so, as with any recipe I post, tweak away to find the exfoliant you like best. We have tried jojoba beads in this recipe for a body scrub - not nearly as nice as the sugar. I'd save those for a facial scrub, but that's just my preference. And I've tried loofah - not scrubby enough for my tastes, but again see what you like.

10% emulsifying wax (e-wax, Polawax, or BTMS)
10% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid (5% cetyl and 5% stearic is very nice)
10% cocoa butter (or other really hard butter)
10% shea or mango butter (or quite soft butter - shea aloe would be great here)
56% oil - I'm using soy bean oil here
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance or essential oil*
1% Phenonip

If you want to use this for a body scrub, start with 100 grams of sugar per 100 grams of sugar scrub. You can increase it as high as 200 grams for 100 grams of sugar scrub - it depends upon your taste (I like it really scrubby, so I go for 200 grams per 100 grams of sugar scrub.) If you are using another exfoliant, you'll really have to play with it to see what you like.

*Note: We're using 2% fragrance oil because we're actually making 200 grams of product by adding the sugar, so the increased fragrance amount will actually make the product smell nice. If you're using essential oils, check your safe usage levels before adding to the scrub.*

Weigh all ingredients except the fragrance or essential oil in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler. Heat and hold for 20 minutes at 70C. Remove from the double boiler and put into your fridge or freezer until it reaches 45C. Add the fragrance oil, then return it to the fridge or freezer to cool further.

When the mixture starts to harden slightly on the sides of the container and gets a thick film on the top, remove it from the fridge or freezer and start whipping it with a hand mixer with whisk attachments or your Kitchenaid with whisk attachments. Whisk until it looks like vanilla pudding - this might take a little while - then add the sugar and whisk until well incorporated. Pour into jars and let sit until hardened.

As a note, some people whip this in a Kitchenaid for hours to make it extra fluffy. I'm an impatient woman so I don't do that. But if you have a Kitchenaid mixer, try it with the whisk attachment to see how fluffy you can get it.

Join me tomorrow for fun with sesame oil!


Anonymous said...

Hi, are you sure that it's 10% e wax and 10% stearic (and/or cetyl)?! seems a bit high to me... or is there a reason for such high percentages?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

It works well for me! Consider this as being a just add water in the shower lotion. If you worked this out as being a lotion with say 60% or 70% water, it would be something like 5% e-wax and 5% cetyl or stearic (sorry, my math skills have gone to sleep for the night). The goal is to make this very thick and whippy. When you add the sugar, it should be thick enough to scoop up with your hand and use as a nice scrub!

Aesthete said...

Hi Susan,

I read on one of the forums that adding baking soda or citric acid to emulsified scrubs helps ensure preservation and also adds a nice scrubby feeling. I was wondering if you have ever tried that and what is your take on the "preservation" with these two additions?

Thank you again for sharing!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

HI Aesthete! Baking soda is alkaline, citric acid is acidic, and I wouldn't trust either of them to be a preservative.

Citric acid can behave as an anti-oxidant and a chelating ingredient in our products, but it can also change our pH in water based products. Although anti-oxidants can keep our oils from going rancid, citric acid is a water based anti-oxidant, so I don't think it'll do much in an oil based scrub. It won't behave as a preservative - rancidity and microbial contamination are not the same, although microbial contamination can cause rancidity - so you'd still get some bugs in your scrub!

I would hesitate to use citric acid in a scrub - ouch! all those little cuts we don't know we have on our skin or after shaving would burn like we've poured vinegar on them!

Baking soda could offer a nice scrubby feeling in a scrub - I use it in my solid bars - but it wouldn't act as a preservative at all.

I'm curious - what rationale does the poster in the forum use for these being preservatives?

Aesthete said...

Hi Susan, well I never got a reply from the poster and the link to the original post is dead. Darn. Anyway, I tried this recipe and loved it. If you leave out the emulsifying wax and doubled up on the fatty alcohols, would it separate? I'm guessing it shouldn't since there's no water in it...but I've been wrong plenty. Thank you again for your reply and for this fantastic blog.

Tara said...

Hey Susan. Since there is emulsifier in the scrub, is it okay to incorporate water-soluble ingredients, such as glycerin or honey? I love using these in my scrubs, but they obviously separate out with the conventional oil-based scrubs.

Thanks Susan!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Aesthete! How did I miss your comment? You can make this with all oils and no emulsifier and it shouldn't separate in the container, it just won't emulsify on your skin. It will be an another version of an oil scrub, only thicker. (You might remember my experiments with making butters out of oils with various thickeners. It would be something like that.)

Hi Tara. Yes, you can incorporate some water soluble ingredients, but then you're adding water so you'll definitely need a preservative and it will make it slightly thinner.

Ali Mendelson said...

Hi Susan! Why do you need to heat and hold if you're not using water?

desperatesoapwife said...

Hi Susan,
first, thank you for all your great info,so highly appreciated and you are funny, too.

I made this scrub and love it.I used 10% regular cacao butter and 10% Shea and 20% stearic acid, had no cetyl alcohol.
The only thing, 2 days later, I had little white chunks, I assume stearic acid, in my scrub, which doesn't bother me,but I was wondering, if you have an idea why ?
I heated everything up and was holding it for 20 minutes.
Thak you very much,

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anonymous. You have seven days to put your name on your comment or I will have to delete it.

To respond to your comment - it isn't a preservative for bath and body products. I can provide you with tons of studies showing that it simply doesn't work. And please don't recommend essential oils as preservatives for our products. There are no studies showing that they work at the levels we might use them.

zanox II said...

Hi Susan!

I'm a frequent visitor to your wonderful blog and you have given me a lot of inspiration in making my own bath and body products. I'd like to review this recipe.

I first tried this recipe on March 6, 2011 (as recorded in my formulating note book). Since that day, I've made this a few more times, changing the type of oils, depending on which oil is available on my shelf. I also made a little bit of tweaking to your original recipe (in terms of oil and butter percentage) to get a bit thinner scrub. However, it is not that very thin, just nice for my liking.

Emulsified sugar scrub
10% emulsifying wax (I use e-wax)
5% cetyl alcohol
5% stearic acid
6% cocoa butter
10% shea butter
60% oil - (I've tried sunflower oil, soybean oil, apricot kernel oil, almond oil)
1% Vitamin E
2% fragrance oil
1% Phenonip

This scrub has a very nice feeling and easy to rinse off without leaving skin dry and taut. I don't even need to apply lotion after my scrubbing session!

Thanks for being a great inspiration!


Anamaria said...

Hi Susan, what a wonderful blog this one! thank you for all you share. I was reading your sugar scrub formula and notice there is no beeswax in it, different from other recipes, would you please tell me the reason for not including it? thank you

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Anamaria! I don't include beeswax as I don't think it feels very nice on my skin. I use it in my foot scrub bar as I want it to stay on my feet longer, but it feels waxy on my body skin, something I really don't like.

Anonymous said...

Hi Susan
Why heat and hold this formula if it contains no water?