Monday, October 26, 2009

Facial moisturizer with sunflower oil

Facial moisturizers should be light, moisturizing, and slightly occlusive. I like to have a moisturizer that offers anti-inflammatory features because my skin tends to be on the red side. A facial moisturizer containing sunflower oil offers all of those features - although it's not going to have a really long life span. We are going to add some Vitamin E to the mix for the oxidation, and we'll throw in a tiny bit of EDTA (0.1%) to maximize its shelf life. I still wouldn't keep this for more than 6 months, even with all the rancidity prevention stuff.

For further ideas on facial moisturizers, please check out my post on the topic.

As a note, I generally wouldn't use only one oil in a moisturizing lotion or cream as I like to have something light to sink in quickly and something medium or heavy to stay on for a while. But a moisturizer is something we want to sink in quite quickly, so using a light oil combined with various humectants and moisturizers will work well. You can use other oils if you want, but I thought I'd try one with all sunflower oil because of the high linoleic acid content (and because this is kinda my topic today...)

FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE

WATER PHASE (if you don't have aloe vera or hydrosol, use 78% water)
48% water
15% aloe vera
15% hydrosol of choice (I'm using lavender hydrosol)
2% glycerin
0.1% EDTA

OIL PHASE
8% sunflower oil
4% emulsifier - Polawax, e-wax or BTMS
2% thickener - cetyl alcohol for the glide

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
1% Vitamin E

If you want to include essential oils in here, remove up to 1% from the water phase.

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.

2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.

3. Heat and hold both containers at 70C for 20 minutes. When you have done this, add the water phase to the oil phase and blend well with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat often until the lotion reaches 45C.

4. When the lotion reaches 45C, add the preservative, hydrolyzed protein, panthenol, extract, and essential oils and mix well with the hand mixer or blender. Let cool.

5. Pour the mixture into a bottle - one with a treatment pump, preferably - and let sit until completely cooled.

Join me tomorrow for soy bean oil - the neglected moisturizing, linoleic acid containing oil!

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