Sunday, October 4, 2009

Emulsifying systems: Olivem 800

I was fortunate to get a sample of Olivem 800 (INCI: Ceteareth-6 Olivate) so I'm trying it out!

Lotioncrafter describes Olivem 800 as "natural source non-ionic emulsifying system developed from natural olive chemistry designed to provide optimum stability in low viscosity/super-fluid emulsions with a light silky feel. Created using olive oil in an esterification process with pre-ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol, it contains the long carbon atom chains (C16-C22) from pure refined olive oil. It is especially suited for the creation of hyperfluid systems and can be used to create sprayable lotions able to incorporate up to 90% water into the formulation. It can be used to provide oil-free formulations working as the only lipid source. It easily creates milk-like stable emulsions which can be thickened with a variety of thickeners as needed (cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, xanthan gum, HEC, etc.). Olivem 800 is totally compatible with a broad range of low pH active ingredients."

We use it at 1 to 3% if used with a co-emulsifier, and 2 to 5% as the primary emulsifier. It must be heated and held in the oil phase for use.

So what does this all mean? Olivem 800 is good for high water content lotions - as you can see, up to 90% - so I'm going to try it in a light body lotion. It is based on olive oil, so it's going to offer some hygroscopic properties to the lotion. I like multitaskers, so this is a good thing in a high water content lotion where you don't have a lot of space to play with lots of extra ingredients.

This would be a great emulsifier for an oil free moisturizer or an oil free foundation. These would be non-ionic if you're leaving out the BTMS and cationic polymer, so you can use Tinosan as your preservative.

WATER PHASE (you can use 78% water if you don't have the hydrosols!)
56% water
20% lavender water (my aloe went bad! eek!)
2% sodium lactate

4% fractionated coconut oil
4% olive oil
2% cetyl alcohol
2% IPM
4% Olivem 800

0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance (key lime pie - my best friend's blend!)
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% cyclomethicone

So what's the result???

I found the first batch felt nice, but was a little less glidy than I would have liked. So I added 2% cyclomethicone to the second batch to make it more glidy (and removed 2% from the water phase). I realize this has too few humectants - the olive oil and sodium lactate are great, and the Olivem is supposed to be a humectant as well - so if I were to tweak this, I'd reduce the water by 3% and add something like glycerin or honeyquat or hydrovance or another good humectant because I can get away with a little thickening and a tad more stickiness in this lotion.

Join me tomorrow for some random thoughts about lotions...


Annie said...

Any idea as to how this compares to Olivem 1000 (INCI:Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate)? My supplier has it and I am curious.

Anonymous said...

I would like where to find the olivem...I'm also in canada but can't found it with my normal suppleirs (new directions, creation from eden, aquarius...) did anyone now where I can find it please or something similar...

Marina Korzenevica said...

thank you for the post, i am a very new here, so if i ask what you wrote before, please, forgive me! I have olivem 800, as well as cetyl esters and akacia gum which are very old...i mean i probably bought them seven years ago (cannot see the expiry date). Do you think I can use them for anything? AT least anything?


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Marina! Seven years is a long time. I would throw out these items and restock.