Monday, October 19, 2009

EDTA in our creations!

Let's take a look at including EDTA in a lotion formula...The disodium EDTA I have from the Personal Formulator recommends usage at 0.1%, so I'll use that as my number.

A THICKER FOOT CREAM RECIPE (originally in this post...)

WATER PHASE
59.9% water
3% glycerin
0.1% disodium EDTA

OIL PHASE
15% oils - olive and rice bran are great choices here (we want heavier oils)
10% butters - I'd choose shea and/or mango here as they are both very emollient
6% emulsifier
3% stearic acid

COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% Vitamin E (you can go as low as 0.05%, but that's hard to measure!)
0.5 to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil blend

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.

2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler. (If you are using menthol crystals, add this to the oil phase.)

3. When both containers have reached 70C, heat and hold for 20 minutes. Add the water phase to the oil phase for exciting phase inversion stability!

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C.

5. Let cool to 45C, then add your fragrance or essential oil and preservative. Mix well with your hand mixer or stick blender, then let cool.

6. You can pour the mixture into a jar now, but leave off the cap and let set for a few hours. Or you can wait until the mixture reaches room temperature, then spoon into your jar. Or you could use a pump bottle or malibu bottle as this will be bottle-able if you have a way of squeezing it out!

IN A BODY WASH OR OTHER SURFACTANT-Y CREATION

EDTA is added to surfactant creations to stabilize the foam and to bind the metal ions together so you get more lather and bubbles. So let's take a look at using EDTA in a bubble bath for extra foamy goodness. You can use it in a shampoo, body wash, or other surfactant creation in the same fashion.

36.5% distilled water water
30% Amphosol CG
22% Bioterge AS-40
6% BSB
1% glycerin
0.5% to 1% preservative (Germall Plus or Germaben)
2% fragrance oil
0.1% EDTA
Colouring, if desired

Up to 2% Crothix - the liquid, not the pastilles

Mix your surfactants together until well blended, then add the water and blend well. Add the glycerin and EDTA, and blend well, but not too well as you don't want a ton of bubbles. I suggest you heat and hold this phase for maximum preservation.

When the mixture has cooled to 45C, add the preservative, fragrance oil, and colour.

Let it rest until completely at room temperature, then check the viscosity. If you are happy with it, bottle and label it. If you aren't happy with it, then add 1% liquid Crothix and stir well. If you still aren't happy with it, add another 0.5% Crothix. You can go up to 2% Crothix, but ensure you stir very well in between additions. I wouldn't go over 2% Crothix - if you need to go over this amount, you're just asking for bubble Jell-o!

Join me tomorrow for citric acid - chelator, sequesterer, acidifier, anti-oxidant, and awesome ingredient in bath bombs!

1 comment:

Kesha A. said...

Hello Swift!

Just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy reading your blog, it's soooo informative. Because of you, I'm interested in making lotions and creams to add to the other products that I make. You are such an inspiration and I love looking at molecules and molecular structures, I guess I'm geeky too. LOL!!

BTW, I'm NaturesBeauty on the dish, I'm sure we'll run into one another from time to time over there.

Take care and keep up the great work!!

Kesha A.