Sunday, September 20, 2009

Mineral make-up filler round-up (with iron oxides): Silk mica

Mich very kindly sent me a sample of TKB Trading's silk mica to try, so I've been including it in everything lately. (It may be similar to mica powder from but the micron size is different!) But what exactly is it?

Silk mica is a colourless, translucent mica with a large particle size of 50 microns. It does not offer much shine but does offer slip and glide with a soft, smooth texture. It is supposed to be mattifying. It is more expensive, according to TKB Trading, then sericite mica. It should be used at 10 to 40% or so.

The grind: I used the Aster matte pigment grind from TKB Trading. I doubled the recipe to be...
3.2 grams manganese violet
1.0 grams ultramarine pink
1.0 grams ultramarine blue

I did not include any base as I'm testing fillers.

1 cc colour to 1 scoop silk mica (13%). The colour is a tad lighter but I'd really call it no change. It wipes off far too easily for my tastes, and I can't feel the silkiness yet.

1 cc colour to 2 scoops silk mica (23%). The colour is definitely lighter, but not whiter, and there's still no mica like shine. It doesn't wipe off as easily as the 1 cc blend, but a little more than I'd like.

1 cc colour to 3 scoops silk mica (31%). The colour is lighter still without whitening, and the adhesion is getting really good. I'd say it's above average at this point in that some comes off when I rub my hand, but it leaves behind some colour.

1 cc colour to 4 scoops silk mica (37.5%). The colour is definitely getting more transparent with every scoop and the adhesion is increasing. The colour is not whitening at all, and the slip is quite nice. There's still no shine.

1 cc colour to 5 scoops silk mica (43.6%). The colour is even more transparent, and I can finally see some shine. At over the recommended levels, there is still no whitening of the colour and the adhesion is good. The slip is very nice. I quite like this...

Except the colour is far too intense. I am shocked when I put it on my eyes - it's like I put straight iron oxide on my face and I look like a clown. Nobody in their right mind would like this colour. I would suggest using this at 40% for the slip, glide, and transparency, then adding something to actually take the colour down. The colour you see in the grind is the colour on my eyes! EEEEK! Far too much. This would be a great addition to any product in which you want to keep the colours true.

Perhaps mixing the talc and silk mica together to keep the colours as true as possible with awesome adhesion? It would be a great idea for blushes or foundations - although there's no mention of oil absorption for silk mica, so you'd have to include an absorber so your colours won't morph during the day. This would also be a great substitute for Micronaspheres in a non-colour changing eye shadow base (like my alternate base) if you can't get that product.

Here's my colour chart so you can see the changes - there aren't many. I think the only reason the 3 scoop version looks lighter is because I didn't press hard enough on the Q-tip while putting it on the card stock. As you can see, the colour gets a bit more translucent, but it really doesn't change much. No whitening, no highlighting of certain shades. This is definitely a filler for keeping your colours true - but a little too vivid in this case!

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