Saturday, September 19, 2009

Mineral make -up filler round up (with iron oxides): Treated sericite

After using the fillers at ridiculous levels with micas, I thought I'd do a filler round-up using the matte colours (iron oxide, ultramarine, manganese violet, and chromium pigments) and the fillers at the suggested usage levels. Let's take a look at treated sericite with matte pigments.

If you want to see sericite mica mixed with a mica blend, please click here. Or to learn more about sericite mica, click here.

The grind: I used the Aster matte pigment grind from TKB Trading. I doubled the recipe to be...
3.2 grams manganese violet
1.0 grams ultramarine pink
1.0 grams ultramarine blue

I did not include any base as I'm testing fillers.

1 cc treated sericite to 1 scoop colour (13%). Very very sheer, very shiny. Barely shows up on my skin (and I'm very pale!) It easily brushes off without a lot of effort. But really pretty and shiny!

1 cc treated sericite mica to 2 scoops colour (23%). The colour has definitely gone darker, but it's still really really shiny! It brushes off far too easily for my tastes.

1 cc treated sericite mica to 3 scoops colour (31%). The colour is getting deeper, but it's still very sparkly. (I say this like it's a bad thing - it's not!) It's still too easy to brush it off.

1 cc treated sericite mica to 4 scoops colour (37.5%). I didn't notice much change in the colour, but the shine has diminished a little bit. It's still too easy to brush off my hand.

1 cc treated sericite to 5 scoops colour (43%). The colour really hasn't changed much from the previous level, but the shine has diminished a lot more than I expected from including 1 scoop of colour! It still brushes off far too easily.

1 cc treated sericite mica to 6 scoops colour (47%). The colour hasn't changed much from 4 scoops, but the shine has definitely decreased. It's still there, but it's become more matte.

1 cc treated sericite mica to 7 scoops of colour (51%). The colour really hasn't changed much from 4 scoops, but the shine has decreased quite a bit. Although there's some shine, I'd think of this as more of a matte colour.

So what have we learned? That between 37.5% and 51% the colour doesn't change much, but the shine definitely changes. At the higher levels of sericite mica, it is more of a sheer colour and at the higher levels, it's definitely a proper eye shadow.

If I didn't know what was in the bag at 1 to 4 scoops, I would swear it was violet mica! It has that shine and glimmer you expect from a mica. So treated sericite mica at a high percentage with no other fillers might be a great way to get the mica shine without spending a ton of money on various colours!

And it doesn't stay on well alone. I could brush it off quite easily. At the higher percentages of colour, you could see the purple was left behind, but really only in the creases of my hand, which wasn't very attractive. I would not use sericite mica alone for any highly pigmented product.

If you are making a foundation or blush with matte pigments, including sericite mica will offer a ton of benefits and won't change your colour, but it won't stay on easily and will offer some shine. Play around with it to find the shine level you like. (Ironically, in a finishing powder without colour, it offers just enough shine to be nice on your skin. But when you add colour to it, it seems to sparkle even more!)

It does feel very silky and lovely, so you can get away with adding a really adhesive but grippy ingredient like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide at low levels.

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