Thursday, September 10, 2009

Mineral make-up filler round-up: Part 2

Welcome to part two (of three) of the mineral make-up filler round-up! I'm adding various fillers to the Paper Cut grind (from TKB Trading).

I used 15 cc (1 tbsp) raspberry pop mica to 3 cc black satin mica. I removed 1 cc of the colour grind and blended in 0.75 cc (5 small scoops) of colour to it. This works out to about 43% filler. As I mentioned yesterday, this is definitely not the ratios you want to use for some of these fillers, but I made a mistake in calculations (again, I'm blaming the stomach flu like symptoms brought on by the steroids!)

Magnesium stearate - it is not a great idea to use this at more than 10%, but I used 43%!

Colour: As you can see, the colour did go far more pink and the sparkle was reduced (but remember, this is far too much for this colour!)
Opacity: Far more translucent than the original.
Feel: Very draggy - almost on par with titanium dioxide. 43% is definitely way way too much magnesium stearate!
Adhesion: Incredible adhesion. I rubbed and rubbed and the sparkle came away, but not the colour!

Magnesium stearate should not be the only filler you use in a base. It's really draggy and doesn't add anything to the mix. Having said that, at proper levels it will keep your colour true, so if you wanted to experiment with a really sparkly mica filled eye shadow with up to 10% magnesium stearate so you didn't morph or change the colour in any way, it would be very adhesive, although very draggy.

Ronaspheres - not normally used as a filler for powdered products as the Micronaspheres kind of fit that requirement, but still works.

Colour: It definitely made the colour a little deeper and the sparkle was awesome!
Opacity: It did make the colour a little more opaque, but not by much.
Feel: Just lovely. Great slip and glide.
Adhesion: Good adhesion. I rubbed and it came off, but not without trying.

Ronaspheres can be used in a powdered product at up to 20% and it did deflect the light nicely on my hand, not highlighting the fine (and larger) lines as much as some other fillers (like bismuth oxychloride). They serve the same purpose at Micronaspheres, which are far cheaper, but it is a better choice than most fillers if you are worried about highlighting fine lines. This is the main purpose of Ronaspheres - obscuring those lines and keeping your make-up out of those creases. I did like the slip and glide in it, and I would use it as a base for eye shadows and powdered products. It's great in a lipstick or foundation (light, medium to heavy, or oil free), and I would recommend keeping it for those applications purely because of the price.

Calcium carbonate - can be used at up to 15%, but I usually use 3%. And I used 43% here.

Colour: Whitened the colour to be more pink. And killed some of the sparkle. Normally you wouldn't use 43%, so this is not a true test of how it will react at reasonable levels of 3 to 5%.
Opacity: Again, you wouldn't normally use this much, and it made it more opaque. At normal levels, you wouldn't notice a big difference.
Feel: Didn't like it. It wasn't draggy, but it was very powdery and stiff feeling, almost like too much talc. I hate that feeling, but some people don't mind it.
Adhesion: It was fine, but I wouldn't use it as the only adhesion ingredient in a product.

The calcium carbonate was never meant to be the only filler in a product. It's meant as a small amount filler to help with oil control and keeping colours true. It did change the colour at 43%, but you aren't going to use that much, so you know a small amount isn't going to change the colours at all!

Magnesium myristate - thanks to Mich for the sample! You're awesome!

Magnesium myristate is a fine white powder derived from myristic acid. It offers good adhesion without altering the colour too much. You might recognize it from the sericite mica treated with it. It's good for offering some moisturization for oily skin through increased hydrophobicity. It offers a creamy slip and glide to your products, and can be used to press powders. You'd normally use it at 5 to 10% in a product.

Colour: At 43% (which is far more than you'd use!) this did make the colour a little whiter. At normal levels, you wouldn't see much of a change.
Opacity: A little change in opacity, but again, these levels were too high.
Feel: This felt really lovely. I could feel it was more "creamy" than other fillers (except for bismuth oxychloride) and it had great slip and glide.
Adhesion: It had good adhesion at this level, but at lower levels you'd definitely need to include a great adhesion ingredient.

This was an interesting ingredient and I would definitely include it in bases in the future with a more adhesive and more opacifying ingredient like titanium dioxide or sericite mica. For people with normal to dry skin, this would be a fabulous addition - if you don't have the treated sericite mica with myristate - for some moisturization. Probably not the best choice for someone with oily skin.

Here's the row of fillers side by side. You can see the magnesium stearate makes the colour whiter and more translucent, the ronaspheres keeps it pretty true but a little more translucent, the calcium carbonate whitens and makes it more opaque, and the magnesium myristate makes it a little more translucent. None of these brings a sparkle to the mix, so if you are looking for ingredients to use in a foundation or blush, these ingredients are not going to make you look like a day time vampire (who, in Twilight, sparkle. Raymond hates this!)

Join me tomorrow for part 3!


Mich said...

I am always happy to help further the progress of crafty science! Thanks for the info!


Nikole said...

THANK YOU :O It's so hard to find information on these substances for making cosmetics and what ratios are most effective! I am pleased to have stumbled on this post thank you!