Thursday, September 3, 2009

Lipstick: Modifying lip balm - adding titanium dioxide

Sometimes it's hard to find an ideal iron oxide for the base colour of that lipstick colour to die for, so we turn to our fillers for help. (This is even harder when you consider ultramarine pink is right out!)

Titanium dioxide is always my first choice for making something opaque, but often it can morph your colours, sometimes dramatically. Burgundy iron oxide can become purple, and that may not be the colour you want! I like to start off with 1 scoop titanium dioxide and work my way up as high as 8 scoops for 2 cc of colour to 1 tbsp lip balm or lip stick base.

And it can add drag to your lipstick. If you think you'll be using a lot of titanium dioxide, modify your base with even more slippery oils, for instance, or adding fillers that will increase slip and glide (more about this in the next few days!)

Before adding your fillers, always check your micas or other colours - some of them already contain bismuth oxychloride or titanium dioxide, which means you're going to get a more coverage kind of colour than you would with straight mica blends.

I love this Tutti Fruiti colour from the TKB Pop mica roundup recipes. Although it didn't suit me as an eye shadow, I could see the lip colour potential. (Pop micas contain titanium dioxide, so they are going to offer more coverage than those that don't.)

TUTTI FRUITI (original recipe)
1 cc raspberry pop mica
2 cc strawberry pop mica
1 cc grape pop

Tutti fruiti lip shimmer
1 tbsp lip balm base
2 cc colour
1 sc titanium dioxide

I was right - it is a fabulous lip colour. It looked lovely in as a gloss and had some good staying power, but I wanted something with a little more coverage, something with more I added titanium dioxide. As you can see from the picture, it did offer more coverage and a deeper pink colour...success!

An aside on using titanium dioxide...mix it well. It tends to clump, which means you can get white bits in there that are not at all attractive. If you're using a coffee grinder or Magic Bullet for your colours, sift the titanium dioxide well as you add it to the mix, grind it very very well, and ensuring it is all blended before adding it to the lip balm base. If you're blending in a bag, make sure you sift the titanium dioxide well before adding it to your other colours. Squish it longer than you would normally squish your colours, and ensure there are no lumps before adding it to the lip balm base (And no, this isn't the Tutti Fruiti colour...but I wanted an illustration of poorly mixed in titanium dioxide!)

Although I liked the colour and will wear it, the drag was kind of annoying. What can I do? Fillers to the rescue!

Join me tomorrow for fun with fillers - adding Ronaspheres!


Johanna said...

Hi, how much is 1cc or 1 sc? I´m from Finland and we have millimeters and kilograms..
Thank you for yout great blog!

Ericka Crystal said...

Ah thanks for your clarification! I have been playing around with titanium and there are always white spots in my lipsticks! I will use a magic bullet next time to blend. Also there are sometimes black spots in my lipstick- is that titanium too? I only use iron oxides, titanium and micas. thanks again!

Do Thuy said...

Can I use zync oxidie instead of this?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Do Thuy. Sure, why not! Here's a recipe where I make anhydrous eye primers with zinc oxide.

Hi Ericka. I'm no tsure why you have black spots. That sounds a bit weird. Are you sure they aren't just clumps of your iron oxides that look very dark?

Ericka Crysal said...

Hi Susan,

Yes I think I was not mixing my oxides well enough. Thank you!

What do you recommend for lipstick that is sticking to the aluminum mold? I have been using castor oil but the lipstick still sticks in some places.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Ericka. Sorry, I've never used aluminum molds. Do you have some kind of mold release you could purchase? Or would cooling them quickly work?

Ericka Crystal said...

I figured it out. In case you get asked this question again, I simply used castor oil as a lubricant.

Thank you.

Ericka Crystal said...

Hi Susan!

Thanks for all your amazing information!

Was wondering if you are familiar with "cracking" in homemade chap sticks and lipsticks. Sometimes my lipsticks have a large crack in them and I can not figure out why.

Please help if you can!

Anonymous said...

Thanks for the suggestion about grinding the titanium dioxide. I've been obsessed with trying to perfect my lipstick making skills, and I have two problems that have been driving me crazy. One of them is I keep getting titanium dioxide specks in my lipsticks. I grind as thouroghly as I can with a mortar and pestle, and the specks are smaller than the ones in your picture. I will have to try grinding in a coffee grinder to see if that helps. The other problem I keep having is tiny air bubbles form while I'm mixing the lipstick, and I end up with tiny holes in my lipstick. And not just a few holes, it's like Swiss cheese except the holes are the size of pin pricks. If you have any suggestions as to what might help fix this problem, I'd be grateful. Now I know why everyone says lipstick making is so difficult. I mean, the concept is simple, right? A mixture of fats, waxes, and colorants. But there are just so many things that can go wrong :S


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Birgit. I have no idea why you are getting holes in your lipsticks. I've never heard of this before! As for the titanium dioxide, you need to grind it quite a bit to get it to mix well. Try the coffee grinder.