Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Lipstick: Croda's super sterol lipstick base

I had some samples of super sterol liquid and Crodamol STS lying around the workshop - I know, I'm a lucky girl, eh? - so I thought I'd try Croda's recipe for a lip balm with these products.

What is super sterol liquid? The INCI reads C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters. It's a light emollient that is supposed to mimic your natural sebum, and it claims it will penetrate the stratum corneum. Not a bad thing in my book!

And the Crodamol STS is a silicone replacement product (INCI: PPG-3 Benzyl Myristate) that offers film forming and emolliency. It is not water soluble like other esters. Since it doesn't work for me in hair care products as a silicone replacement, I thought it might work for my lips. You could substitute dimethicone in its place at the same percentage.

My modified version of this recipe...
70% super sterol liquid
4% beeswax (it called for synthetic beeswax, but I had the real thing so I used that)
12% Crodamol STS
12% ozokerite wax
2% candellia wax (it called for paraffin, but I don't have any)

You'll notice the distinct lack of Vitamin E in here. These are very long shelf life oils, so you don't need to worry about it. I'd add it at 1% anyway because Vitamin E has some good skin loving properties.

What do I think? I am in love with this lip balm. It's very soft - too soft for a lipstick in my opinion - but stiff enough for a tube. I can feel it on my lips for a really really long time, and I don't get the urge to lick it off. The taste is completely neutral. This, for me, is the best lip balm I've made.

If you want to make this into a lipstick, you'll want to up the waxes a bit. I'd add about 4% candelilla wax and another 5% beeswax for a total of 9% beeswax, 4% candelilla wax, and 12% ozokerite wax. I'd remove 5% super sterol and 4% Crodomol STS (or dimethicone). This will give you nice slip and glide, moisturizing, but tenacity.

Join me tomorrow the start of the fillers round-up and summary!


Mich said...

Sounds like a great recipe, Susan!
...and the shopping list grows longer and longer...

As always, thanks for the "enabling"!


Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

I'm such a bad person, eh? Like we need more supplies! But this lip balm is really great...at least I think so!

Gerri said...

Hi Susan- Gardenma (Gerri) here checking out the lip balm recipe. If I have this right, the ozokerite is regular parafin wax? The other stuff I can get from lotion crater and I do have candilla wax. I am using a lip balm from the 2009 swap made by cynthesis and I love it! I just got an order for 200 balms and am going to attempt this recipe. I greatly appreciate an answer and any advice. Thanks!

Julia said...

Hi Susan.

I thank you for your page! I'm not great with percents and as well I am fairly new to this recipes for cosmetics. What is 4% is that like 1/8 tsp or what? Thank you@!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Julia. Here's a post on how to convert recipes that you can find in the FAQ. There are other posts there that might interest you on measuring. We don't use volume in cosmetic products as it is simply too inaccurate!