Saturday, August 29, 2009

Using Ronaspheres in emulsions: Liquid Foundations - medium to heavy coverage

We create heavier coverage foundations by including titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Both of these ingredients add whitening and opacity to a formula. You will want to use oil soluble titanium dioxide, although water soluble will work in an emulsified formula.

I'm going to suggest you try making a light foundation first as a test of what kind of coverage you really want. I think a lot of us go rushing towards something heavy thinking it will help with our perceived skin imperfections when a light coverage foundation is really what we want. (The picture to the left is a foundation made only with Ronaspheres - the recipe from yesterday. You can see it is quite opaque. I found this level of coverage was perfect for my red, acne prone, aging skin...even if I wasn't that happy with the actual colour!)

I'm going to suggest starting with 3% titanium dioxide in your foundation to see how you like it. Again, it's a better idea to use oil soluble titanium dioxide than water soluble.

LIQUID FOUNDATION WITH RONASPHERES LDP (This moisturizer recipe is from the post on facial moisturizers, April 7, 2009, so if you want to know why I'm including the ingredients I'm including, check it out!) You can use any facial moisturizer recipe you like and remove 3% of the oil phase to include the Ronaspheres and 3 to 7% of the water phase for the titanium dioxide).

WATER PHASE - you can use 80% water if you don't have the hydrosols and aloe vera
45% water (modified from 48% to include 3% titanium dioxide)
15% aloe vera
15% hydrosol of choice (lavender, rose, and orange are all good for various skin types)
2% humectant of choice (sodium lactate, glycerin, sodium PCA, honeyquat)

5% oils - (modified from 8% to include the Ronaspheres)
4% emulsifier - Polawax, e-wax or BTMS*
2% thickener - cetyl alcohol for the glide

3% Ronaspheres
3% titanium dioxide
0.5% to 1% preservative
2% hydrolyzed oat protein
2% panthenol
0.5% extract of choice - green tea, chamomile, honeysuckle extract
0.5% extract of choice - a second extract

Additional: 4% colour blend to create the foundation

*Using BTMS will offer a more matte feeling and looking foundation, and will offer extra skin conditioning.

Grind your foundation colour blend while you are heating and holding.

1. Weigh out your water phase in a heat proof container and put into a double boiler.

2. Weigh out your oil phase in a heat proof container and put into your double boiler.

3. When both containers have reached 70C, weigh out your water again, then add it to your oil container. (Leave out about 1 tbsp of heated water and mix it with your powdered extracts in a shot glass.)

4. Blend with a hand mixer or stick blender for at least 3 minutes. Repeat this process as often as you would like until the temperature reaches 45C. Add your Ronaspheres and mix well to ensure it blends properly and doesn't leave clumps. Add the titanium dioxide and mix well to ensure it blends properly.

5. Let cool to 45C. Add the preservative, hydrolyzed protein, panthenol, extract, and essential oils and mix well with the hand mixer or blender. Add your colour blend at 1% to start, and try the colour on your hand to see if you like it. You can go as high as 10% colour if you have darker skin. Again, mix very well. Let cool.

To include the extract, you'll want to dissolve it with a bit of hot water - 1/2 tsp should do just fine. Take some water out of the water phase before you put it all together.

6. Pour the mixture into a bottle - one with a treatment pump, preferably - and let sit until completely cooled.

What if you have acne prone skin? We don't want oils! Join me tomorrow for how to make an oil free liquid foundation!


Mich said...

I am seriously tempted to make this!

What do you think about using some 'cones for part of the oil to give it extra glide?

Do you think that one could use micronized TiDi (or z-cote) in this?

Thanks for all the great information!

aap0calyptic said...

I do not have hydrolyzed oat protein, panthenol, ronaspheres, or any extracts to add during the cool down phase. All I have is titanium dioxide, preservative and my colors. How would I reformulate this to work around that? Thank you so much for the amazing posts!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi aap0calyptic! If you look up "lotions", you'll see some ideas for facial moisturizers you could modify. Or click on the link to moisturizers in the post to see some other ideas!

Erica Ross said...

I really want to try this recipe but i have oily acne prone skin and I have a deeper complex.I've looked up compounds to put in my foundation to aid my skin type. Will the same rules apply? Things like rice powder and silk proteins.

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Erica. If you look at the last line of the post, I mention that the next post will be an oil free moisturizer. Perhaps that is better suited to your skin type? I have posts all over the blog about this skin type (it's my skin type), so you'll have to do some searching to learn more about what will work for your skin type.

primrose Petal said...

Hello there! I'm curious if anyone has tried this recipe yet? I'm looking to make a good liquid foundation, I already make powder mineral cosmetics. I am particularly interested in a serum type of foundation, such as the Gressa Minimalist serum foundation. It's very simple and also a very nice foundation. It seems to me that lecthin is the key for emulsification of a small amount of extracts into oil. I would really like to know how I can go about doing this and creating a medium coverage foundation. Thanks so much!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Primrose Petal! This isn't a serum, this is a lotion. I teach this lotion in my classes, and it is a light feeling moisturizer. You can customize the skin feel by customizing the oils.

Lecithin can be used as an emulsifier in the HLB system when combined with a high HLB emulsifier. As for emulsifying small amounts of extracts into oil, there are many oil soluble extracts that you can use in oils without worrying about emulsifying anything. The lecithin in that product is probably used to emulsify the small amount of glycerin, not the extracts. (I have no idea why they'd throw in a titch of glycerin here, to be honest...) I don't offer help with duplicating products any more for many reasons, but I will offer a few thoughts on this product. It's a few oils and a silicone with some colour in it. None of those extracts are essential for the skin feel or foundation colour, which come from the micas, iron oxides, and titanium dioxide.

Find a nice serum recipe, then play with adding your colour grind in small amounts - see my posts on how to create a colour grind - and see what you like. It may take time to figure out the right recipe and learn about your ingredients, but considering that you get 1 tablespoon for $54.00, it seems like it'd save you a whole lotta money!

The Primrose Petal said...

Thank you so much Susan! I appreciate your feedback!

Yes I realize this is a lotion recipe. I may give it a go! I am interested in making my own serum foundation too, not quite duplicating this. After some more research too, I gathered that the extracts are likely for some skin benefits, but not much else? I was also curious about the glycerine too, interesting. The price is absolutely ridiculous which is why I have only sampled it and would like to make my own liquid type foundation anyway. Thanks again for your feedback!

The Primrose Petal said...

Hi Susan! Do you mean find a serum recipe that is oil based or an emulsion serum? thank you

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Primrose Petal! I'm not sure what kind you seek. You mentioned a serum you wanted in a previous post. What kind is that? Can you tell from the ingredients what it is?

There is no definition for a serum. It can be oil based, lotion based, silicone based, and so on. You can call anything you want a "serum". So the place ot start maybe is to look at the ingredients in the one you mentioned above and figure out if it's a lotion, oil based, etc. kind of serum.

My suggestion is to find a serum you like - make one from a post on this blog, find a recipe on-line, buy one - and try the colour grind in it. See if it'll work with the ingredients you want to use. Do some experimenting and see what you like. If you do a few experiments and want to troubleshoot them, return here and post the complete recipe in percentages with accurate notations of the ingredients and your process and we can figure something out!

The Primrose Petal said...

I am looking for an oil based serum. I noticed that the Gressa Serum Foundation I mentioned above has Coconut Alkanes (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, which is an EcoCert, vegetable derived silicone alternative-emollient. Have you worked with this ingredient before?

I have noticed in more searching that "serum" is a very vague term, as you have said.

I will give some a try and come back with the formula for discussion, thank you!

The Primrose Petal said...

Hi Susan!

I have been playing around with making a "serum foundation" and have come up with something I really love and works quite well for me and my skin.

I use a base of Caprylic triglyceride and broccoli seed oil. I also add meadowfoam seed oil, rosehip seed oil, and evening primrose oil. I add a mineral pigment blend Of titanium dioxide, lauroyl lysine coated mica, and oxides. I add 10% of the overall blend silica and a small amount of lecithin. The consistency is a bit thicker, not watery like a typical serum. It applies like silk and spreads very easily, while giving good medium coverage and setting to a nice satin-matte finish that lasts all day and looks better as the day goes on. I am quite interested to try your recipe here too ;)

Stasia said...

Hey Susan!

I got hooked on DIYing cosmetics and body care products when I ran across Marie Rayma's blog, Now that I'm ready to learn how to formulate concoctions myself, I've graduated to your blog! I love the awesome, clear explanations you give about different ingredients. I have a couple questions, though, that I'm hoping you might know the answers to.

I'd like to attempt your foundation recipe, and I'm thinking out some changes to accommodate my lack of fancy ingredients. Since I'm still kind of a newbie (and probably prone to stupid mistakes), would you mind giving some input on those changes? Here's what I've been thinking of trying:

60% water
15% aloe vera juice
2% glycerin

5% oils - probably a combo of jojoba, argan, and grapeseed
4% emulsifier
2% thickener*

3% Ronaspheres**
3% titanium dioxide
2% hydrolyzed oat protein***
2% panthenol***

Additional: 4% colour blend to create the foundation

*I don't have cetyl alcohol. I have another thickener, xantham gum, but don't fancy it's slimy, booger properties would work. Is there a good way to drop/sub this? I guess I could buy cetyl alcohol...

**I'm hoping to use a sub here, as I can't access this. From what I've read, ronashperes are used for slip, light scattering, and a bit of coverage help. Here are the alternatives that I'm looking at:
-sericite mica
-silica microshperes
-silk powder
-magniesium stearate
-magnesium myristate
I'm thinking of trying mostly sericite mica, with a bit of silica microspheres, magnesium stearate, and silk.

***If moisturization isn't a big deal, could these be left out? I could also add some silk. My silk powder isn't hydrolyzed, but appears to dissolve in water with a bit of coaxing...

Finally, I've heard a lot about foundations made with lotion-type bases, and apparently they are very prone to having the pigments and powders "pill up", streak, and skid on the skin, or even crumble off after the foundation dries. I have this vague idea that things such as magnesium myristate could help, or slip agents. What do you think? Have you heard of that problem?

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Stasia. May I suggest you check out the newbie section of the blog to learn more about making lotions, including why we use each ingredient and what you could potentially change. I don't recommend changing anything out of a basic recipe until you get an idea of what each ingredient brings to the mix, so maybe making the basic lotion there first to see what kind of viscosity you get before adding the powders is a good idea?

I've heard of all the problems you mention, and a lot of those issues have to do with the lotion base of the product, which is why we get a great lotion base, then add things to it. If you have all those ingredients in it, how will you know what each thing brings to the product and what you'd like to change?

Ronaspheres aren't accessible to homecrafters any more, so you can use the micas, or check out something like Pentsia powder, which you can find at Lotioncrafter.

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but there are so many things that go into making a great lotion, and we have to start from the beginning and work our way to making changes. For instance, I don't go over 10% aloe vera juice as the electrolytes can mess up an emulsion in some situations. The type of preservative and emulsifier you are using matter for that reason as well as many others. Again, check out the newbie section of the blog to learn more about making a basic lotion.

I hope this helps!