Monday, August 31, 2009

Using Ronaspheres in anhydrous products: Concealer sticks

Please note: I have no idea where to get Ronaspheres any more. I used to get them at Voyageur, now no one carries them. You can try using sericite mica or another type of filler when you are working with oil or oil-in-water products. 

Concealer sticks are intended to be used as a spot concealer, not an all over foundation. So you'll want something a shade lighter than your foundation with medium to heavy coverage.

Ronaspheres are perfect for this application as they are intended for emulsions or anhydrous products, and they will offer light to medium coverage. So how do we get the heavier coverage we need for this product? Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to the rescue!

A concealer stick is an anhydrous product made without water. This one is hardened to be used in a lipstick type container. We need to create a base that is going to feel great going onto our skin, then make the base opaque enough to show up on our skin.

In creating a base, we'll have to choose some oils that our skin will like and won't be too shiny. We can choose dry oils like macadamia, hazelnut, and avocado oils, or light oils like fractionated coconut oil or shea oil. Esters work well in this application, and are a great choice for oily or acne prone skin. Choose oils your face likes. Castor oil is not a great choice because it is particularly shiny (but it is great for lipsticks - more about this shortly). And try to choose an oil with a long shelf life - you'll probably have this around a long time, so something like FCO or shea oil are great choices. We'll definitely want to include Vitamin E in here for both the properties it brings to the skin and to retard rancidity.

Ideally, we'll want to include IPM because it will reduce the shine and greasiness of the product. One problem - it can be quite comedogenic for those of us with acne issues, so if you have skin that is easily annoyed, you might want to leave it out.

Check out the posts on oils and exotic oils for a few ideas. If your skin can handle butters - you lucky girl! - then include those as well.

We'll also want to include some waxes to stiffen the stick. Waxes are going to create drag, no matter which one you choose, so we'll compensate for the drag with the oils we choose and by including Ronaspheres. I usually use beeswax - you can choose soy, candelilla, or carnauba wax and use less in the the base stick.

You can also include dimethicone or one of the silicone substitutes in this product. The dimethicone is going to offer skin protection from the elements, but you can use zinc oxide to offer medium to heavy coverage as well as skin protection, so choose to leave it out if you aren't a fan of silicones.

This is going to make a lot if you consider that each lip balm tube is going to hold about 11 grams, so feel free to reduce the amount of this recipe to 50% or even 25% of the total weight, if possible.

30% beeswax - reduce this to half if you are using one of the harder waxes
65% oils of choice
1% Vitamin E
4% Ronasphere LDP

Melt the wax and oils in a double boiler or microwave until it is well melted. Add the Vitamin E to the mixture and stir well. Add your Ronasphere LDP to the base and stir well to ensure no clumps remain.

Choose a colour blend that is one shade lighter than your normal colour blend for a concealer. You'll want to try it at 1 to 2 scoops of colour to every 100 grams of concealer. If you want heavy coverage, include 1/2 tsp titanium dioxide - oil soluble only - to the colour blend, then add and stir well.

My suggestion? Take out a portion of your mixture and try it with the correct proportions of colour and titanium dioxide. Let a bit dry on a piece of paper and try it on your skin. If you need more colour or more coverage, add more colour or more titanium dioxide. If you need less, then thin it out with some of the uncoloured mixture.

As for colour choices, you won't want anything shiny, so stay away from micas. I'd suggest finding the colour you want before undertaking a concealer - you aren't going to have the time while the base is melting to find the perfect colour. If you've been reading my blog, you'll know it's taken me ages to find something even remotely close to my skin colour (and I'm still not completely happy with it!)

This colour blend is pretty simple and is good for people with ivory skin, cool skin tones
1 part red (light) iron oxide
1 part brown iron oxide
1 part yellow iron oxide

If you are uncertain where to start with foundation colours, try this and see how you like it. You can increase any part by titches to try to match your skin colour.

For a basic beige, you can try using brown-umber iron oxide, then add a little oriental beige, paradise sand, or aborigine amber mica. I know this is going to make it a tad shiny, but it is a nice combination if you want a beige.

Join me tomorrow for more fun with mineral make up!

Check out the defunct Cosmetic Formulator for great colour blends. Print off or PDF these pages because you will want to try them all!


Anonymous said...

Hi there~LOVE the article!
First, can we make it WITHOUT the ronaspheres? Next, did u ever find out how mbig the scoops are? like 20% of the base??

Ws doing a google search on butters and found your site:)

catherine said...

Wow I can maybe make my own concealer! I would love to hear from you and everyone how easy/hard it is to get the right shade. I think for me it would be difficult...dark asian skin w major dark under eye circles. I wear concealer only under eyes/around nose.

Is it worth the initial investment to do this? I'm not ashamed to admit our family is on a definite budget. Right now I spend maybe $15/mo on concealer...after considerable investment of time/money I finally found the right brand/shade.

Would love to hear others' experiences before going down this road...:)

Anonymous said...

I was excited when I found this recipe . I really want to try this recipe. Now if I wanted a medium coverage foundation in this consistency would I just add colour? I want to put it in a cosmetic container I can use a brush with. Like a blush container like.
I'm just going to place an order for supplies so I wanted to try something new :). Thanks for your help.

Anonymous said...

Has anyone found where to purchase ronaspheres? Or is there a substitution that works?

Anonymous said...

Question; what are Ronaspheres and who sells them? I kind of thought they were similar to silica microspheres, but this was an assumption on my part. What could I substitute for Ronaspheres in this recipe?