Sunday, August 23, 2009

Mineral make-up: Fun with blush! An opaque base.

As you might remember from the opaque foundation base post, we can add titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to our blush base to increase the opacity, but this will increase the drag. So we need to compensate by having more sericite mica and more Micronaspheres (in the blush colour grind). I'm adding Dry-flo (optional), as well, to increase the slip and glide. I always like to include calcium carbonate in my base because I have oily skin: You can leave it out if you have dry skin or include the same amount of kaolin clay, which also offers great oil absorption.

4 tbsp treated sericite mica (myristate treated mica for dry skin)
1 tbsp titanium dioxide
1 tsp dry flo
1/2 tsp zinc oxide
2 scoops silk powder
1 scoop allantoin
3 scoops calcium carbonate or kaolin clay

For people with dry skin, leave out the calcium carbonate/kaolin clay as you won't want more oil absorbers!

Put all the ingredients in a bag and squish well until combined. Or put into a coffee grinder or Magic Bullet and whizz until well combined. I like to make a lot of this and keep it around in a container so I can play with colours at my whim!

You can use the Barely There colour blend from yesterday's post in this blush.

You can see the difference between the translucent base (from yesterday) and today's opaque base (using the cool shade of Barely There)! The opaque base is definitely a stronger colour that is going to offer more coverage than the lighter translucent base. The 25% opaque base is a stronger colour than the 40% translucent base!

Here are a few more colours you can play with in your blush bases! (Again, these are modified colours from the Cosmetic Formulator, which I've tweaked a little bit...) Start at 25% and move up to 40% to see what you like. As you can see from the 40% opaque base colour above a "Barely There" can become a Really Obviously There very quickly, so add it in small scoops to see what you like.

5 scoops titanium dioxide
1 scoop red (light) iron oxide
1.5 scoops ultramarine pink
5/8 tsp manganese violet (for cool tones only - leave out for warm tones)
1/2 tsp Micronaspheres or talc

Blend together in a bag or coffee grinder/Magic Bullet type thingie. If you're using a blender type thing, add your Micronaspheres after grinding.

1/8 tsp titanium dioxide
3 scoops yellow iron oxide
1/2 scoop orange iron oxide (we used honeydew from
1/2 scoop red (light) iron oxide
1/10 scoop brown-umber iron oxide (a titch, use the end of your spoon)
1/8 tsp manganese violet (for cool tones only - leave out for warm tones)
1/2 tsp Micronaspheres or talc

Again, blend together in a bag or coffee grinder type thingie. Add the micronaspheres after grinding.

Join me tomorrow for adapting your blush colour grinds to become a foundation colour!


Anonymous said...

Hi Susan.

Thanks foran great muriad of information on your site.

I have a question to the mineral makeup in general. Miconasphere or talc is a recurring ingredient in all the recepters I've come across.
I'm not that fond of silicone or talc in the products, could they be left out, or replaced with something else?
I can see you addit for slip? I have read that magnesium stearate also adds slip. Do you have any thoughts on this... Pros and cons etc?

Thanks /Clara

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Clara! Check out the mineral make-up section of the blog to see all the posts I've written on the various fillers you can use!

Holly said...

I believe this question may be obtuse, but by scoop above do you mean the 1/32 tsp scoop?
Also, by 25-40% of blush mixture into the base, do you mean by volume like in the previous post?
Thank you for this information!

Susan Barclay-Nichols said...

Hi Holly. Yes, when I refer to scoops, I always mean the little ones we get from our suppliers that measure 1/32 tsp or 0.15 cc (metric, preferred). Yes, you can do this one by volume or by weight. The measurements are almost the same in this case. I hate doing volume, but when I was writing these posts, I didn't have a small scale. When I write the e-book, I'll convert them all!